Photo © Emily Polar

The Golden Temple

How a single kitchen feeds up to 150,000 people daily.

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By Emily Polar

Travel Photographer

20 Jul 2018 - 6 Minute Read

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The Golden Temple is literally a 24-karat-gold-plated temple in Amritsar, Punjab, India, about 10 hours north of Delhi. It’s one of the most revered spiritual sites of Sikhism, but it’s not only Sikhs who make the pilgrimage here. The temple receives and feeds 50,000 to 100,000 people daily from all religions and walks of life, and during big festivals such as Diwali, the numbers can rise to 150,000 per day.

After learning about the openness of this religion, and the number of people they feed, I was brimming with curiosity. I mean, the kitchen?! What did it look like?

The common area in the north end of the temple complex where pilgrims rest and sleep on the floor. This entire room was full during the week of Diwali (festival of lights).
Emily Polar
The common area in the north end of the temple complex where pilgrims rest and sleep on the floor. This entire room was full during the week of Diwali (festival of lights).

Arriving in Amritsar by bus, I was thrown into what felt like pure chaos, the low evening light adding to the disorienting sea of busy streets. I made my way through the snarl of traffic, vendors, and rickshaws to the Golden Temple and my accommodation.

The dorms for volunteers felt like a place for detaining the unruly; one big, windowless room and three smaller rooms filled, wall-to-wall, with beds.

After tossing my things in a locker, I grabbed my camera and set out for the Temple. Also known as Harmandir Sahib (or "Abode of God"), it's breathtaking in the evening, gleaming golden against the dark lake surrounding it. There are four entrances, one on each side of the Temple – not to confuse, but to emphasize that it is open to all – and one bridge leading to the Temple that, I later learned, symbolizes what Sikhs believe to be the ultimate goal of human life – to become one with the Divine.

Sikh men dip their hands to drink the holy water said to hold blessings that purify karma.
Emily Polar
Sikh men dip their hands to drink the holy water said to hold blessings that purify karma.
This Sikh man is well known and appears in many photos, and you can see why. In addition to his uncut beard and huge turban that houses his hair, he is carrying the symbolic items of a Sikh: Kangha (wooden comb for hair), Kara ( an iron bracelet), Kachera (cotton undergarment), and finally a Kirpan, a sword or dagger large enough to defend oneself.
Emily Polar
This Sikh man is well known and appears in many photos, and you can see why. In addition to his uncut beard and huge turban that houses his hair, he is carrying the symbolic items of a Sikh: Kangha (wooden comb for hair), Kara ( an iron bracelet), Kachera (cotton undergarment), and finally a Kirpan, a sword or dagger large enough to defend oneself.

The next morning, I woke up excited to see the kitchen and the orchestrated dance that it performs 24 hours a day.

I grabbed a plate and followed everyone else to the langar (huge hall) where everyone sits on the ground. Volunteers brought out the food; buckets of lentils, rice, veg, and roti (flatbread).

Men and women sitting down in the langar waiting to be served a vegetarian lunch by volunteers.
Emily Polar
Men and women sitting down in the langar waiting to be served a vegetarian lunch by volunteers.

After we finished our meal, men came with water and brooms, cleaning the floors to prepare for the next batch of people. Each meal takes around 20 minutes, including serving and cleaning up, which allows for three turns per hour. 

I followed the other pilgrims down the stairs to the dish drop-off – workers brushed off any extra food and put the plates into big metal buckets.

A boy cleans the floor of the langar between a quick turnover of meals.
Emily Polar
A boy cleans the floor of the langar between a quick turnover of meals.
After the communal meal, lines of people carry their metal plates downstairs to be handed off to the dishwashers.
Emily Polar
After the communal meal, lines of people carry their metal plates downstairs to be handed off to the dishwashers.

With my hands free and belly full, I explored the cooking stations. My favorites were the roti stations, where long tubes of dough were rolled, patted, and cooked. There were multiple stations, as well as machines that cranked out more than the humans could. During this Diwali festival, they had all stations producing.

This man's job is cooking the roti in an already toasty room made even warmer by this huge cooking surface. Doesn't he look cool doing it, though?
Emily Polar
This man's job is cooking the roti in an already toasty room made even warmer by this huge cooking surface. Doesn't he look cool doing it, though?
The biggest pot of chai (milk tea) that you've ever seen needs lots stirring to keep the bottom from burning.
Emily Polar
The biggest pot of chai (milk tea) that you've ever seen needs lots stirring to keep the bottom from burning.

When I wasn’t helping in the kitchen, I roamed the grounds and the city. I made lots of friends in passing, taking photos of each other. 

Whenever I returned to the temple, after a jaunt to the busy streets outside of the complex, I’d feel like I was back at home, with a routine and a familiar space.

The auspicious lighting of thousands of candles for the Diwali festival, dispelling the evil of darkness with the goodness of light.
Emily Polar
The auspicious lighting of thousands of candles for the Diwali festival, dispelling the evil of darkness with the goodness of light.
Fireworks are lit in celebration of Diwali.
Emily Polar
Fireworks are lit in celebration of Diwali.

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Travel Photographer

Emily is drawn to capture images that reveal a sense of wonder and connection – photography that spurs a playful investigation into the lives of people and the land we inhabit.

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