Exploring one of Europe’s last primeval forests, Steve White has a misty morning encounter with the heaviest animal on the continent.

Photo © Getty Images / Onfokus

As the Alaska sky gradually turned indigo in the fading light, the scraping of ice and frantic unheeded commands to my dog team broke the stillness. Thundering down the frozen waterway in the subzero air, I snatched glimpses over my shoulder. Where was Mike, my guide? How far had we come? And was he aware I was now some miles away, with the gap increasing by the minute?

Out exploring in the early evening, an irresistible scent had wafted by my lead dog’s keen nose. Following primal instincts over my instructions, he wheeled around and led the obliging pack in the opposite direction at full speed. Applying all my weight to the hook brake barely scratched the smooth surface of the ice. It saved me from fishtailing wildly from side to side, but did nothing to slow the charge.

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