Paola Totaro

Paola Totarohttps://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/about/contributors/paola-totaroPaola Totarohttps://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/europe/italy/what-to-see-and-do-in-lecceWhile crowds flock to Florence, they overlook this gem of a town in the southern Italian region of Puglia. Nomad Paola takes us on a walking tour of its graceful piazzas and stunning architecture.2021-07-27T10:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/europe/italy/what-to-see-and-do-in-leccehttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>I remember, not so long ago, when any mention of a visit to or holiday in <a href="/explore/europe/italy/secrets-of-puglia">Puglia</a> elicited a quizzical raise of the eyebrow. These days, this region of the Italian south is justifiably renowned for its turquoise seas, whitewashed medieval hill towns, and delicious regional food and wine. Strangely, however, despite travel journalists often referring to Puglia as the “new Tuscany”, travelers still overlook one of the region’s most extraordinary treasures: the city of Lecce.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#gem">Lecce, Puglia: an architectural gem in the heel of Italy’s boot</a></li> <li><a href="#heart">Finding the heart of the Old City</a></li> <li><a href="#saints">Saint Irene and Saint Oronzo</a></li> <li><a href="#amphitheater">Buried treasure: Lecce’s Roman Amphitheater</a></li> <li><a href="#basilica">The breathtaking Basilica of Santa Croce</a></li> <li><a href="#food">Mouthwatering local food in Lecce</a></li> <li><a href="#trip-notes">Trip notes</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="gem">Lecce, Puglia: an architectural gem in the heel of Italy’s boot</h2> <p>Lecce is found in Italy’s deepest south, about an hour and forty minutes by car from Bari, the regional capital. It’s an easy drive, down the coast on the motorway or along coastal roads that follow the beaches and provide expansive views of the Adriatic Sea and centuries-old olive groves. On arrival, I always head for the Old Town (<em>Centro storico</em>) – this is a city to be enjoyed on foot, so you can meander down ancient alleyways, walk into churches, piazzas, and cafes at leisure or sip on an aperitivo at sunset with freedom.</p> <p>The Baroque architecture here is so unique, so beautiful, elaborate, and lyrical that it has its own name in architectural textbooks, and is known as the “<em>Barocco Leccese</em>”. Florence leaves you breathless, but I promise, so will Lecce. There are countless chapels and churches, vast palazzi carved from the soft, local, golden limestone – <em>pietra Leccese</em> – which artisans of the past joyfully sculpted to decorate the facades. I like to take the time to really stop and look at the minute, sculpted detail on some of the buildings.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/italy/lecce/streets-getty-695434928.jpg" alt="A narrow maze of streets in the old center of Lecce, Italy." /> <figcaption>Narrow alleyways in the old center. Image credit: Getty Images / EunikaSopotnicka</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="heart">Finding the heart of the Old City</h2> <p>The formal entry to Lecce’s historic center is through Porta Napoli, an arch built in 1548 in honor of King Carlo V who had built the defensive fortifications that once surrounded the city. The old walls no longer exist and so now, the magnificent arch stands triumphally alone, flanked by two Corinthian columns and the <a href="/explore/europe/austria/7-things-to-know-before-going-to-austria">Habsburg</a> royal crest. Over the decades, archaeologists working around the stone portal have uncovered a wealth of funereal objects from the Messapian civilizations; tribes who lived in the area some 7,000 years ago.</p> <p>From here, it’s a short walk to Piazza del Duomo (cathedral) in Lecce’s historic heart. Dominated by the Cathedral, this is one of Italy’s most beautiful piazzas, vast and airy in the daytime but truly magical at night as it is very gently lit to highlight the warm gold of the stone and the sensuous lines of the buildings. Its spacious feel contrasts with the labyrinth of narrow streets that run outwards in every direction. Whatever time I arrive, I take time to simply stand in the center and admire the Cathedral’s unusual dual facades – one which looks into the piazza while the other looks westward. The <em>campanile</em>, or old bell tower, the seminary, and Bishop’s Palace are superlative examples of the <em>Barocco Leccese</em>.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/italy/lecce/duomo-getty-591579307.jpg" alt="Piazza del Duomo, Lecce, Italy." /> <figcaption>Piazza del Duomo. Image credit: Getty Images / Andrea Pistolesi</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="saints">Saint Irene and Saint Oronzo</h2> <p>Next on the walking tour is the Church of Saint Irene, patron saint of the city until Pope Alexander VII rudely gave her the shove and installed a man – Saint Oronzo – in her place. (He no longer has a church but a piazza, just a short walk away).</p> <p>Saint Irene’s was begun in 1591 and is modeled on one of Rome’s great Basilicas, Sant’Andrea del Valle. The site of several, significant moments in Italian history, including the referendum that brought Lecce into the Kingdom of Italy in 1860, it boasts eight altars, some so intricate and ornate that, in my mind, they almost look like they are embroidered from stone. Piazza Saint Oronzo, just around the corner, is an odd and not entirely satisfactory mix of ancient and Fascist-era architecture but still worth checking out, as its cafes are lively and lovely for breakfast.</p> <h2 id="amphitheater">Buried treasure: Lecce’s Roman Amphitheater</h2> <p>It isn’t exactly rare to find a Roman amphitheatre in Italy, but Lecce’s is right in the middle of the old town, brilliantly preserved and incredibly, only rediscovered in 1901. It had been buried by other structures for millennia until a builder digging foundations for a new bank found the treasure. Built during the Emperor Hadrian’s reign, when Lecce was just a small trading port, it once held up to 15,000 spectators. Still partially buried, its horseshoe shape and seats are kept in semi-darkness at night, adding to its beauty and mystery.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/italy/lecce/roman-amphitheater-getty-821296398.jpg" alt="A nighttime theater performace at the ancient Roman amphitheater in Lecce, Italy." /> <figcaption>A nighttime theater performace at the Roman amphitheater. Image credit: Getty Images / Massimo Borchi / Atlantide Phototravel</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="basilica">The breathtaking Basilica of Santa Croce</h2> <p>The first time I clapped eyes on the Basilica of Santa Croce (Holy Cross), just a stone’s throw from the center, I was reduced to silence, unusual as all my friends would attest. This church began life in the 12th century, thanks to the hermit Pietro de Morrone who would later become Pope Celestine, but the current incarnation was begun in 1549 and took more than a century to finish. It’s the delicacy of the stonework that is unforgettable. Every inch of the façade is decorated with a dream-like riot of figures, from sheep and bizarre mythical birds to chubby cherubs and even what look like dodos.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/italy/lecce/santa-croce-getty-538147172.jpg" alt="The elaborately carved exterior of the Basilica of Santa Croce in Lecce, Italy." /> <figcaption>Elaborately carved stonework on the fa<span>ç</span>ade of the Basilica of Santa Croce. Image credit: Getty Images / Julian Kumar</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="food">Mouthwatering local food in Lecce</h2> <p>Breakfast is my favorite meal in Lecce: <em>Caffe Leccese</em> (espresso, in summer served icy cold) with a shot of sweet, locally produced almond syrup. This must be washed down with a <em>pasticciotto Leccese</em>, shortcrust pastry filled with a plain, lemon scented custard or an array of flavors including my favorite, pistachio. You <strong>must</strong> eat this warm from the oven. The cuisine of Lecce –<em> cucina Salentina</em> – is typical, fresh Mediterranean fare with fresh pasta at the heart and legumes or seasonal greens on top. Focaccia is a specialty, and fresh fish always a joy.</p> <h2 id="trip-notes">Trip notes</h2> <p>Fly into Bari or Brindisi airports and hire a car for the easy drive. Many of the city’s old palazzi have been turned into elegant B&Bs, ranging from five-star luxury to smart budget rooms. Lecce is much loved by Italians in summer, so the best time to avoid crowds is late spring or early autumn when you will still get blue skies and sunshine.</p>Jacek Sopotnicki 1925963286 Getty Images An aerial shot of the old town of Lecce, in Puglia, southern Italy.

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/europe/italy/secrets-of-pugliaLocated in southern Italy at the heel of the boot, Puglia is known for its unique, conical stone houses called trulli. Nomad Paola shares her tips on where to go, what to see, and what to eat.2020-11-05T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/europe/italy/secrets-of-pugliahttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>Located at the heel of Italy’s <a href="/explore/europe/italy/calabria-destinations-discover-the-wild-italy">boot-shaped peninsula</a>, the Puglia region (aka Apulia) is probably one of the country’s least-known jewels – and I love it so much that I’m almost loath to share its secrets.</p> <p>My paternal grandfather came from Puglia and spoke of it with such joy and melancholy that it imprinted itself on my heart as a child. Later, when my aunt and uncle moved to Bari for work, they both quickly became connoisseurs and lovers of its culture, architecture, and delicious food and took us kids on road trips to explore the coastline, pointing out fairy-tale stone towers and fortifications, splendid Baroque churches, and myriad, vast olive groves and orchards punctuated by the whitewashed <em>trulli</em>, stone houses unique to Puglia.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#trulli"><em>Trulli:</em> little stone houses with conical roofs</a></li> <li><a href="#trullo">Renting and restoring our own <em>trullo</em></a></li> <li><a href="#towns">Puglia’s whitewashed hill towns</a></li> <li><a href="#beaches">Wild, hidden beaches and buzzy <em>lidos</em></a></li> <li><a href="#lecce">Lecce, the “Florence of the South”</a></li> <li><a href="#otranto">Otranto Cathedral: the Tree of Life</a></li> <li><a href="#maria">Santa Maria di Leuca: where two seas meet</a></li> <li><a href="#food">Wine, food, and sunset <em>aperitivo</em></a></li> <li><a href="#trip-notes">Trip notes</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="trulli"><em>Trulli:</em> little stone houses with conical roofs</h2> <p>Once upon a time, these curious, square structures with their distinctive conical rooves were simple shelters built by farmers needing refuge with their animals from the winter’s cold, or when tending vines and fruit trees in the burning summers. During the 1500s, when the region was under Spanish rule, taxes on new houses were raised dramatically to finance the ongoing and expensive civil war. The <em>trulli</em> (plural of <em>trullo</em>) were built without mortar, using a drystone technique, so they could be dismantled as quickly as they were erected – ensuring the poor local farmers could avoid payment of yet another crippling Spanish tax.</p> <p>Today, Puglia’s Alberobello, a little 17th-century town constructed solely of 1,500 or so <em>trulli</em> nestled photogenically into a hillside, has UN World Heritage status, and its whitewashed, vine- and bougainvillea-covered walls and pretty <em>trullo</em> church are popular with visitors to the region. Look out for the magical symbols painted on their roofs – some are Christian, some Pagan, some related to astrology, but all are intriguing.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/italy/trullo-front.jpg" alt="A restored trullo - stone house with a conical roof - in the Puglia region of Italy." /> <figcaption>The author's restored <em>trullo</em>. Photo credit: Paola Totaro</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="trullo">Renting and restoring our own <em>trullo</em></h2> <p>A couple of years ago, we decided to spend a summer roaming Puglia, and rented a <em>trullo</em> to see what it would be like to “live” the experience. There are many <em>trulli</em> throughout the region which have now been restored and can be rented: they make delightful and often very romantic holiday houses, cool in summer and set amongst olive groves and lush fig and almond woodlands, most a stone’s throw from the seaside.</p> <p>For me, that first <em>trullo</em> experience became an obsession. The following year, we found an old ruin of a <em>trullo</em> for sale, its cones literally reduced to a pile of stones, and bought it. We’ve been restoring it ever since. The story of our adventures – not all of them fun, I might add – can be found <a href="http://trullimadlydeeply.blogspot.com/">here</a>.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/italy/martina-franca.jpg" alt="A narrow, pastel-painted laneway in the hilltown of Martina Franca, Italy." /> <figcaption>A narrow laneway in the medieval town of Martina Franca. Photo credit: Paola Totaro</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="towns">Puglia’s whitewashed hill towns</h2> <p>The Valle d’Itria is an undulating vale of vast, centenarian olive groves, and four of the best known of the medieval, fortified towns. Ostuni is the biggest, while Locorotondo is my favorite, with its heart-stopping views downhill over a sea of <em>trulli</em>, an unforgettable sight at sunset. The towns of Martina Franca and Cisternino are nearby, and all are incredibly pretty, with tiny, whitewashed laneways and flowers everywhere, and are best explored by parking your car outside the walls (there are plenty of inexpensive carparks) and spending an evening simply meandering. All are within a half-hour drive of each other.</p> <h2 id="beaches">Wild, hidden beaches and buzzy <em>lidos</em></h2> <p>A car <a href="/travel-safety/europe/italy/driving-in-italy">really is a necessity</a> if you’re planning to explore Puglia, because the beaches – there are 500mi (800km) of coastline to explore – are exceptional. Keep in mind that some are free and a little harder to get to in national parks, while others offer the quintessential Italian <em>lido</em> experience, which means paying for entry and access to comfortable sunbeds, umbrellas, bar and restaurant, and changing and shower facilities. One of my favorites is near the vast, Egnazia archaeological site, which was once part of an ancient Messapic city. The beach nearby – Lido Archeologico – is an incredible spot to float past stone tombs in an emerald sea before heading to a nearby trattoria for fresh seafood and a cold beer.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/italy/capitolo-beach.jpg" alt="Turquoise waters at Capitolo Beach in the Puglia region of Italy." /> <figcaption>Capitolo Beach, on the Adriatic coast near Monopoli. Photo credit: Paola Totaro</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="lecce">Lecce, the “Florence of the South”</h2> <p>The <a href="/explore/europe/italy/what-to-see-and-do-in-lecce">Baroque city of Lecce</a> should not be missed, especially if you’re interested in art and architecture. Often referred to as the “Florence of the South”, Lecce is about a two-hour drive from Bari airport, and a little less from Brindisi, on the autostrada and a little longer but much more picturesque on the coastal road. Lecce is splendidly preserved, unlike many other southern Italian cities, and its architecture, sculpted from golden stone, and pretty, narrow streets make it a walkers’ paradise. I think it’s one of the most graceful and distinctive of Italian cities, and the food is fantastic.</p> <h2 id="otranto">Otranto Cathedral: the Tree of Life</h2> <p>Otranto, on the coast southeast of Lecce, is know for its Cathedral, consecrated in 1068, which has, over the millennia, been the site of legendary cultural battles, including becoming a mosque several times and the site of the Ottoman siege of 1480. The enormous 12th-century mosaic that covers its floor depicts the Tree of Life, while the crypt has some 48 bays and more than 70 columns inspired by the Mosque-Cathedral in Cordoba and Theodosius’ cistern in Istanbul.</p> <h2 id="maria">Santa Maria di Leuca: where two seas meet</h2> <p>Basing yourself in Lecce allows easy access south and to the other side of the boot, where the spectacular, Maldive-like beaches of Porto Cesareo and Punta Prosciutto are found. Puglia is surrounded by both the Adriatic and Ionian seas – if you can, stop at Santa Maria di Leuca, which sits at the very tip of the heel. It was built around a temple to the Goddess Minerva in ancient times, and has long been a site of religious pilgrimage and sanctuary. It’s said you can see the meeting of the two seas’ currents there, too, and the beaches, as well as the little town in the evening, are marvellous.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/italy/san-vito.jpg" alt="San Vito, a picturesque beach on the Puglian coast with a 10th-century Benedictine Abbey." /> <figcaption>Atmospheric San Vito beach, with its 10th-century Benedictine abbey, near Polignano a Mare. Photo credit: Paola Totaro</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="food">Wine, food, and sunset <em>aperitivo</em></h2> <p>The world-renowned Primitivo reds of Puglia are delicious and memorable, as is the olive oil. Puglian food is fresh and tasty, simple <em>cucina povera</em> – the cuisine of the poor – and usually built around seasonal produce. Try the vast array of small, tender barbecued meat morsels known as <em>bombette, orecchiette</em> – hand-made pasta in the shape of small ears – dressed with <em>cime di rapa</em> (turnip tops lightly fried with olive oil, garlic, and baby tomatoes) and <em>puree di ceci e cicoria</em> (chick pea puree with chicory) that sounds odd but trust me, even if you’re not vegetarian, you’ll ask for seconds. I like to have an <em>aperitivo</em> in the photo-worthy Polignano a Mare or the tiny fishing town of Monopoli, and end the evening meandering the sweet alleyways to find a romantic trattoria for dinner.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/italy/orecchiette-pasta.jpg" alt="A platter of hand-made orecchiette pasta, a specialty of Italy's Puglia region." /> <figcaption>Hand-made orecchiette pasta, a Puglian specialty. Photo credit: Paola Totaro</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="trip-notes">Trip notes</h2> <h3>How to get to Puglia</h3> <p>Fly to Bari or Brindisi airports – there are many direct flights from major European capitals during the summer months – and pick up a local hire car.</p> <p>It’s best to book cars early, as they can be difficult to find, especially in peak season (July-August).</p> <p>There is also a good train service from Rome, Milan, and Naples to Fasano which is well placed for exploring the Valle d’Itria.</p> <h3>Accommodation</h3> <p>Puglia is awash in gorgeous, quirky <a href="https://www.trullionline.uk/trulli/">holiday houses</a>, including many renovated <em>trulli</em> and the fortified farmhouses known as <em>masserie</em>.</p>Getty Images / davidionut 0971736382 Getty Images The 17th century-Puglian town of Alberobello, constructed entirely of trulli – small stone houses with conical roofs.

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/northern-europe/united-kingdom/trekking-hadrians-wall-in-winterThis ancient Roman fortification stretches across northern England – and walking the length of it in the off season is challenging, exhilarating, and free of crowds.2020-11-03T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/northern-europe/united-kingdom/trekking-hadrians-wall-in-winterhttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>Let me be honest first up: walking the Hadrian’s Wall path across England in winter is not for the faint-hearted. During the spring and summer walking season, the days are long, allowing for a leisurely pace, and the myriad picturesque villages and pubs that dot the 80mi (129km) route are open to welcome throngs of hungry, thirsty hikers. Winter is a different story.</p> <p>In March of 2020, as COVID-19 began to rage, we decided to flee the madding crowd and walk the Wall in what turned out to be one of the wettest <a href="/travel-safety/northern-europe/united-kingdom/snow-and-ice-driving-tips">English winters</a> on record. We hiked more than 15mi (24km) each day, sometimes in 50mph (80kph) winds, through rain and sleet, and ended up ankle-deep in icy mud more often than I care to remember. We ate our lunch on the hoof – you can’t stop and have a romantic picnic in mud – and I learned a few new skills out of necessity (not one public loo in the handful of villages we passed through were unlocked for out-of-season hikers.)</p> <p>It was, without doubt, one of the most physically challenging things I’ve done – as well as one of the most exhilarating and unforgettable.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#wind">Walk with the wind</a></li> <li><a href="#romans">Hadrian’s Wall, a relic of the mighty Romans</a></li> <li><a href="#stay">Where to stay along the route</a></li> <li><a href="#tynemouth">Dinner by moonlight in Tynemouth</a></li> <li><a href="#trip-notes">Trip notes</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="wind">Walk with the wind</h2> <p>We decide to start on the west coast in Bowness-on-Solway and walk east, which means we are walking with the wind, not against it – and what a relief that turns out to be. Thankfully, we are also properly equipped with water-proof trousers, jackets, and boots, and I cannot stress enough the importance of <a href="/travel-safety/worldwide/essential-hiking-safety-kit">good kit</a>.</p> <p>The path is maintained by English Heritage (signposts are marked by a white acorn), and takes us through stone stiles, a gazillion kissing gates, over small wooden ladders, and across stepping-stones through small creeks and flooded paddocks. We encounter quizzical sheep, a sky full of scudding clouds, and weather that changes from bright to stormy in a minute.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/uk/hadrian-signpost.jpg" alt="A signpost along the Hadrian's Wall path in England." /> <figcaption>The author on day two of the trek. Photo credit: Paola Totaro</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="romans">Hadrian’s Wall, a relic of the mighty Romans</h2> <p>There are areas where the view of the valleys strips our breath away, and the sheer might of the Roman Empire is visible as we see the Wall stretch out into the horizon, like a dinosaur spine hugging the hills and crags. The descent down steep stone steps to the incredibly photogenic Sycamore Gap and the climb back up is a favorite, as is the Birdoswald Roman Fort perched high above the River Irthing. Trekking along the river bend, through woodland and moss-covered logs, is beautiful in winter, but must be paradise in the warmer months. The fort itself is an intriguing stop: it once housed up to 1,000 soldiers at a time, and its perimeters offer a glimpse of just how immense the whole venture was.</p> <p>The Emperor Hadrian ordered the Wall’s construction in 122AD. It took an estimated 24 million stones and 30,000 legionnaires some seven years to build, and became the most heavily fortified border anywhere in the Roman Empire. Archaeologists now believe that the wall was originally 10ft (3m) wide and between 16-20ft (5-6m) high, with a parapet on top. There is some evidence, too, that it was painted white, making its presence even more imposing in the hilly, verdant Northumberland landscape.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/uk/hadrian-dinosaur-spines.jpg" alt="Hadrian's Wall undulates across the top of hills in England." /> <figcaption>The Wall, looking like a dinosaur spine hugging the hills. Photo credit: Paola Totaro</figcaption></figure> <p>It seems incredible that this heart-stopping wonder of the ancient Roman world was pretty much forgotten for centuries – and could have disappeared entirely as farmers plundered its stones, taking it to build homes, churches, drystone walls, and even a road during the Jacobite rebellion. It wasn’t until the 19th century, when a local landowner, John Clayton, lobbied for its protection, and spent years and much of his wealth buying land that ran its length, that it was truly valued. Today, it has UNESCO World Heritage status and is a National Trail.</p> <h2 id="stay">Where to stay along the route</h2> <p>We choose to stay overnight in the old Roman city of Carlisle in Cumbria; in Lanercost, near a crumbling and evocative priory constructed of Roman stone; in the wonderfully named Twice Brewed village (signposted as Once Brewed if you arrive from the east) which leads to the most exhilarating parts of the wall walk; and in Humshaugh before finishing the walk in Corbridge in Northumberland.</p> <p>All our hosts are warm and welcoming, cook up a storm for breakfast, and provide a packed lunch for a small additional cost.</p> <h2 id="tynemouth">Dinner by moonlight in Tynemouth</h2> <p>The final, paved section through Newcastle, where the Wall is no longer visible, is a part of the usual itinerary, but we decide to skip it and take a train to the little seaside village of Tynemouth for our last night. Here, we clamber down 100 or so stairs to a surf beach by moonlight, and eat the most delectable, freshly caught chargrill fish dinner in an old sea container-turned-eatery that started as a pop-up and has become a beacon for foodies. It attracts queues a mile long in summer, but in winter, we get a seat (and a blanket) almost immediately, sit in front of our own tiny woodfire, and eat and drink like Viking kings.</p> <p>If you walk the Wall in spring and summer, you will have much more choice of accommodation, eateries, and pubs, but in a world ravaged by the coronavirus, the off-season solitude is blissful, and the one couple we cross paths with waves happily from afar.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/uk/hadrian-sheep.jpg" alt="A flock of curious sheep greet a hiker on the Hadrian's Wall path." /> <figcaption>Curious sheep greet the author along the path. Photo credit: Paola Totaro</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="trip-notes">Trip notes</h2> <h3>How to get there</h3> <p>Direct flights are available to Newcastle or you can travel by train from London.</p> <h3>Planning the trip</h3> <p>Mickledore specializes in self-guided walking holidays and cycling trips for independent travelers. It booked our B&Bs, organized the pick-up of luggage each day, and provided our fantastic Cicerone guidebook and maps</p> <h3>What to pack and wear</h3> <p>Make sure your hiking boots are well broken in, and that jacket and trousers are both waterproof and windproof. A hat, gloves, and light, moisture-proof layers are helpful, as hiking long distances keeps you warm, but in winter, temperatures drop quickly, too. A light backpack containing water, high-energy snacks, and a battery phone charger were useful as well.</p>Paola Totaro 0 Paola Totaro A hiker on the Hadrian's Wall path in Northern England.

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/travel-safety/middle-east/georgia/georgia-healthWhat is the standard of medical facilities in Georgia? Find out about health concerns, from rabies to malaria, this is what you need to know.2019-12-25T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/travel-safety/middle-east/georgia/georgia-healthhttps://www.worldnomads.com<ul> <li><a href="#medical"> Medical help and medicines in Georgia </a></li> <li><a href="#rabies"> Rabies in Georgia </a></li> <li><a href="#vaccinations"> What vaccinations do I need for Georgia? </a></li> <li><a href="#malaria"> Malaria in Georgia </a></li> <li><a href="#water"> Can I drink tap water in Georgia? </a></li> <li><a href="#food"> Will I get food poisoning from Georgian food? </a></li> <li><a href="#cheers"> How do you say cheers in Georgian? </a></li> <li><a href="#drugs"> Can you take prescription drugs into Georgia? </a></li> <li><a href="#podcast"> Listen to The World Nomads Podcast: Georgia </a></li> </ul> <h2 id="medical">1. Medical help and medicines in Georgia</h2> <p>One of the odd – but ultimately delightful – things I noticed immediately after emerging from the airport in Batumi recently, was the number of street dogs around.</p> <p>Being a dog lover, I felt sorry at first, then while walking around the city, I realized they all had colored tags on their ears, were friendly and refused food – suggesting they weren’t hungry.</p> <p>A city official explained that the state neuters and vaccinates the dogs and city merchants and families feed them. I ended up walking the parks, foreshore and the spectacular waterside Botanic Gardens (the biggest of the former Soviet Union) accompanied by friendly tail-waggers.</p> <h2 id="rabies">2. Rabies in Georgia</h2> <p>That said, travelers should be aware that canine rabies remains common in the <a href="/travel-safety/middle-east/georgia/georgia-internal-travel" target="_blank" title="How to Stay Safe in Georgia">South Caucasus including Georgia</a>, and while stray dogs are vaccinated in cities, districts in non-urban areas may not have the resources to take their animal welfare responsibilities as seriously.</p> <p>As dogs are the source of nearly all human deaths from rabies, it is important to ensure that your rabies vaccination is up to date. Be circumspect with animals, and if the worst happens and you are bitten, wash the wound immediately with clean water and soap, and seek medical attention as soon as possible.</p> <h2 id="vaccinations">3. What vaccinations do I need for Georgia?</h2> <p>There are no specific vaccinations required for <a href="/stories/connection/memories-of-eden" target="_blank" title="Stories about Georgia">Georgia</a>, although you should be up to date with normal seasonal vaccines, including influenza and MMR (measles, mumps and rubella) and check with your GP that all booster shots are up to date.</p> <p>Travelers who plan to explore rural Georgia beyond the cities should check with their GPs to ensure that vaccines against Hepatitis A, which is spread through contaminated food or water, and Hepatitis B, which is contracted via sexual activity or blood (tattoos or piercings) are up to date.</p> <p>It is sensible to ensure that diphtheria, tetanus and pertussis boosters (an all-in-one for adults) are current.</p> <h2 id="malaria">4. Malaria in Georgia</h2> <p>Visitors planning to tour Georgia’s southern areas should consider taking anti-malarial medication as a precaution. Although there is no risk in the capital, Tbilisi, a course of chloroquine before travel – particularly if visiting during the peak danger period between July and October – means being safe rather than sorry.</p> <p>Protective clothing and the use of mosquito repellents are recommended too.</p> <h2 id="water">5. Can I drink tap water in Georgia?</h2> <p>Mountain springs feed Georgia’s water supply, so drinking tap water is safe but as always, just to be sure in rural or more remote areas, choosing purified water over tap, boiled, hot drinks and pasteurized milk might be wise.</p> <p>Tummy bugs like giardia are not uncommon, carry a reusable bottle and invest in a reusable water purifier such as a <span><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M3SOJIG/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=nommatstrasit-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00M3SOJIG&linkId=3606cb50df6e0fdbaa20770a4870b398" target="_blank" title="Buy a Steripen off Amazon">Steripen</a></span> Adventure Opti, which means you’ll stay tummy safe and also not add to the world’s plastic mess.</p> <h2 id="food">6. Will I get food poisoning from Georgian food?</h2> <p>Georgian food is one of the great joys of traveling here, from city restaurants to family homestays, it’s mouthwateringly good. There are stacks of fresh produce (aubergines are a staple and cooked in a gazillion ways), incredible spices and herbs, the world’s best walnuts (they are a massive producer) eaten fresh or ground into the most delicious salad dressings, traditional breads baked in stone ovens with different fillings or shapes depending on the region, are just a few of their specialties.</p> <p>When I came back from my trip, I bought a Georgian cookbook and wondered why in heaven’s name this food isn’t better known around the world.</p> <p>I ate like a queen and tried everything <a href="/travel-safety/worldwide/travelers-diarrhoea-health-tips" target="_blank" title="How to treat traveler's diarrhea">without mishap</a>: apart from common sense tips (wash your hands prior to eating, eat cooked vegetables rather than salads if you have a sensitive digestive system), you can feel safe diving into the food scene.</p> <p>Georgians are also warm and delightful hosts (visitors are regarded as a gift from the Almighty) and everywhere you travel, food (and booze) is the great leveler and welcome gift, so do be prepared for banquet style meals if you are a guest.</p> <p>Being invited to a Georgian feast, called a <em>supra</em>, is one of my most unforgettable moments, and if you’re traveling for longer than a few days, you will undoubtedly end up at one.</p> <p>Be aware there will be more food than you can eat in a week – and you will have to pace the drinking – Georgian custom means someone will be declared toastmaster (known as the <em>tamada</em>) and every drink comes with a toast, formal at first – rather less respectable by the end of the night.</p> <h2 id="cheers">7. How do you say cheers in Georgian?</h2> <p>The word to remember is <strong>გაუმარჯოს</strong> (pronounced <em>gaumarjos</em>) which means ‘cheers’ in <a href="/stories/love/sherlock-home" target="_blank" title="Travel stories about Georgia">Georgian</a>).</p> <p>Another word of caution: the traditional grappa-style end-of-night shot is known as <em>chacha,</em> and is incredibly strong. Georgians are used to it, the rest of us, not so much.</p> <p>Hospitality and warm welcomes aside, use your intuition when you are traveling, and if an offer of food or drink from a stranger doesn’t feel right, best to err on the side of caution and not do it.</p> <h2 id="drugs">8. Can you take prescription drugs into Georgia?</h2> <p>Visitors who travel with simple painkillers for a headache or those who take regular prescription medications must be aware that Georgia has a very strict anti-drugs policy, and this imposes restrictions on some prescription and non-prescription medicines which are otherwise commonly available in Europe, the UK and US.</p> <p>For example, any medicine containing codeine is illegal in Georgia, and it is very important that before traveling, you check your medication with importation regulations with the <a href="https://www.rs.ge/en/5982" target="_blank" title="Georgian Health Ministry">Georgian Health Ministry website</a>.</p> <p>There is no need for women to pack sanitary items such as tampons or pads, as these are widely available in cities. Although if hiking or visiting rural or remote areas, pack all basic hygiene supplies and a first aid kit.</p> <p>If you do need to travel with prescription medicine, British authorities, for example, advise that you carry a copy of your own doctor’s prescription, and ideally, you should keep drugs in their original packaging if you are asked to show what you are carrying. </p> <p>The Georgian health system, part of the Soviet system until 1991, has gone through enormous reform and change over the past three decades, including vast privatization of hospitals and an effort to expand coverage and introduce universal access to medical services funded once again by the state.</p> <p>However, the quality of hospitals and medical care, anecdotally from travelers, is that it varies from city to city and can be difficult to access in country areas. Travel insurance, as always, is key.</p> <h2 id="podcast">Listen to The World Nomads Podcast: Georgia</h2> <iframe width="100%" height="190" src="https://webplayer.whooshkaa.com/episode/541020?theme=light" scrolling="no" frameborder="0"></iframe>Getty Images/Maya Karkalicheva 1572450691 Getty Images Hikers walking on dirt road at Cholashi village, Zemo Svaneti region, Caucasus mountains

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/travel-safety/middle-east/georgia/georgia-internal-travelIs Georgia dangerous or safe for travelers? Nomad Paola Totaro shares her tips so you can stay out of trouble on your trip.2020-11-01T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/travel-safety/middle-east/georgia/georgia-internal-travelhttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>From the velvet green vineyards of Khaketi and the snow-capped mounts of the Caucasus to the wacky Las Vegas-meets-the-Soviet Union architecture of Batumi on the Black Sea, <a href="/travel-safety/middle-east/georgia/georgia-the-political-situation" target="_blank" title="The Political Situation in Georgia: What You Should Know">Georgia</a> is an environmentally diverse place to explore.</p> <p>And if you’re an adventurous traveler, it is also one of the most exhilarating.</p> <p>A former Soviet republic, Georgia sits at the crossroads between Asia, Europe, <a href="/travel-safety/eastern-europe/russia" target="_blank" title="How to stay safe in Russia">Russia</a> and the <a href="/travel-safety/middle-east" target="_blank" title="How to stay safe in the Middle East">Middle East</a>, and has been fought over for millennia, coveted for its strategic position as well as its remarkable natural beauty, fertile valleys and near Mediterranean climate.</p> <p>Deciding whether Georgia is part of Europe or Asia can depend on who you ask: as the Caucasus Mountains form the eastern border of Europe, Georgia, at least technically is located in Asia. Yet, have a chat to Georgians themselves and they will inevitably tell you that they are European and feel a part of Europe, culturally, physically and politically – even if their music, architecture and food clearly has Asian roots.</p> <p>In 1917, after a revolution, Georgia battled to build the first republic in the world which was governed by a social-democratic ideology. That only lasted until 1921 when Russia invaded the country, and it wasn’t until 1991 that the fall of the former USSR meant Georgia regained its independence.</p> <p>Since then, Georgia’s government has embarked on a sustained campaign to open the country to the world and tourism, seeing visitor numbers grow from less than 100,000 a year in 1996 to close to 7 million in 2018.</p> <p>Indeed, Georgia has blossomed into a new, global tourism hotspot with visitors helping to reduce rates of poverty and contribute around 7.5% of the country’s GDP growth in 2018.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#transport">Getting around Georgia safely </a></li> <li><a href="#driving">Driving safely in Georgia </a></li> <li><a href="#alcohol">Zero tolerance for drink driving </a></li> <li><a href="#train">Traveling around Georgia by trains </a></li> <li><a href="#hiking">Hiking safety in Georgia </a></li> <li><a href="#snow">Safe snow sports in Georgia </a></li> <li><a href="#weather">What is the weather like in Georgia? </a></li> <li><a href="#crime">Crime in Georgia </a></li> <li><a href="#lgbtq">Is Georgia safe for LGBTQ+ travelers? </a></li> <li><a href="#cash">Do I need cash in local currency in Georgia? </a></li> <li><a href="#disabled">Is traveling in Georgia difficult if you are disabled? </a></li> <li><a href="#nature">Natural disasters in Georgia </a></li> <li><a href="#women">Is Georgia safe for women traveling alone? </a></li> <li><a href="#podcast"> Listen to The World Nomads Podcast: Georgia </a></li> </ul> <h2 id="transport">1. Getting around Georgia safely</h2> <p>The easiest and safest way to enter Georgia is by plane, and there are many reasonably priced flights from major European cities as well as from nations that share its borders, including Armenia and Azerbaijan in the southeast, and <a href="/travel-safety/middle-east/turkey/essential-safety-advice-for-travelers-in-turkey" target="_blank" title="Is it safe to travel to Turkey?">Turkey from the south</a>.</p> <p>At just under 27,000mi² (69,700km²), Georgia is a voyager’s paradise, a nation small enough to do a road trip by car and explore in a week if you’re pushed for time, and varied enough to devote a month or more if you really want the full Georgian experience.</p> <p>Keep in mind that some government travel advisories, including the UK Foreign Office, advise that having travel insurance is important, as immigration authorities in Georgia may ask for evidence of <a href="/travel-safety/middle-east/georgia/georgia-health" target="_blank" title="How to stay healthy in Georgia">valid health policy</a> coverage on arrival.</p> <h2 id="driving">2. Driving safely in Georgia</h2> <p>Georgia has a good network of roads – driving is on the right – and a national highway system pretty much radiates outward – north, south, west and east – across the country from the capital, Tbilisi. The main highway that crosses the mountains into Russia follows the same route that was described by the ancient Roman author, Pliny the Elder in the first century BC.</p> <p>However, remember when driving, it can be difficult to navigate: the Georgian language has its own alphabet which is unique (its exact origin has never been established), and while it can be fun trying to decipher what looks like code when you’re walking or exploring by car on a road trip, it can be very difficult to follow signs and understand road maps.</p> <p>Try to learn a few words of the language you know you will need or download an app onto your phone, such as Google Translate.</p> <p>In the age of GPS and mobile phones, navigation is much less of a problem when you don’t know a language, but buying fuel can be challenging, and Georgians themselves will admit they are not the most law-abiding drivers in the world.</p> <p>Speeding and a flouting of rules seem to be common, so driving is not for the faint-hearted. Speed limits in towns and cities are 38mi/h (60km/h) or 50mi/h (80km/h) outside – unless signs say otherwise.</p> <p>It is compulsory to wear a seat belt in the front seat of a car in Georgia, and children under 12 must sit in the back.</p> <h2 id="alcohol">3. Zero tolerance for drink driving</h2> <p>Georgians love a tipple, and this is no surprise considering the nation also happens to be the oldest wine producer in the world, demonstrated by an archeologist’s find of an unglazed clay amphora known as <em>kveveri</em> which still contained dregs and when tested, were dated to the 4th Century BC. </p> <p>Georgian wineries still ferment their grapes this way, and some of the best-known vineyards are situated on stunning hillsides just two hours out of the capital Tbilisi, where you can also visit monasteries with 1,000-year histories or man-made cave villages in the unforgettable David Gareji Monasteries and hermitage.</p> <p>However, if wineries are on your itinerary, hire a driver or use taxis because any kind of drink driving is banned in Georgia: this means zero tolerance to any alcohol in the blood at all when driving. It is an offense that carries stiff penalties.</p> <p>In major cities like Tbilisi and Batumi, taxis are reliable and cheap, and most hotels and B&Bs will help you find a reliable driver and negotiate a reasonable day rate if you want to go exploring and not drive yourself. Drivers are fast and can be aggressive, so seatbelts are a must.</p> <p>Keep in mind too that in many places, taxis don’t have meters, so you need to negotiate a price for your trip if it is a shorter one rather than a day rate. Again, your accommodation staff should be the best guide to prices and help you avoid being overcharged. </p> <p>In many parts of Georgia, transport is dominated by a kind of mini-van which locals call <em>marshrutkas</em>. They’re a mix between public and private transport in the sense that they are much cheaper than a cab, don’t stop as often as buses, but they are also often crowded and drivers are known to speed. Add really bumpy roads and signage in an alphabet you don’t understand, and it becomes an adventure with a capital ‘A’. </p> <h2 id="train">4. Traveling around Georgia by trains</h2> <p>Rail transport in Georgia offers a mix of faster, more expensive modern trains and the much cheaper, slower ex-Soviet trains that link Georgian cities with each other and neighboring capitals, such as Baku in Azerbaijan.</p> <p>For 10 months of the year, there’s no need to book, but in summer (June to August) it is best to pre-book seats and plan well in advance.</p> <p>Rail travel is cheap, safe and only the normal precautions are needed. These include locking your compartment from the inside on sleeper trains, and being attentive to personal belongings is of course always advised.</p> <h2 id="hiking">5. Hiking safety in Georgia</h2> <p>Georgia can be heaven for hikers. Venture into picturesque, ancient high-altitude villages, ski fresh powder, go off-piste among pine forests or raft and kayak down pristine rivers (there are 25,000 rivers and streams in Georgia).</p> <p>There is a growing variety of tours and specialist group holidays available to explore Georgia safely while not compromising on adventure. Some will tailor activities for individuals and provide local guides, while others offer group tours allowing you a taste of various sports, from rafting to hiking. If you are an experienced hiker, there are many trails to follow, and maps and guides are constantly improving. However, it’s always wise to hire a local guide and take advantage of local knowledge.</p> <p>Vast swathes of the nation are connected by national parks. In the south, you can book riding holidays to explore the area of the Caucasus on horseback or camp in remote hilltop areas or stay with locals in a homestay.</p> <p>A quick word of warning about snakes: they are common, particularly in early summer, and some are venomous. Medical facilities and anti-venom outside of the major towns can be hard to find, so be careful.</p> <p>Always wear appropriate footwear: <a href="/travel-safety/worldwide/essential-hiking-safety-kit" target="_blank" title="Essential safety kit for hikers">pack grippy, well-worn in hiking boots</a>. </p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/travel-safety/georgia/gergeti-trinity-church-georgia-gettyimages-1182562960.jpg" alt="Gergeti Trinity Church sits on it's grassy peak during rainy weather in the Caucasus Mountains Kazbegi, Georgia" /> <figcaption>Gergeti Trinity Church under the rain, Kazbegi, Georgia. Photo credit: Getty Images/Marc Guitard</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="snow">6. Safe snow sports in Georgia</h2> <p>Georgia is becoming popular among snowboarders and skiers, and this is a relatively new destination for these sports, but information about weather conditions in high altitude areas is still not reliable or up-to-date – so be conservative when making decisions in unpleasant weather.</p> <p>Safety standards for adventure sports can also be inconsistent in Georgia, so do your research and try to use local, experienced guides if venturing off the beaten track.</p> <p>But before you give in to the excitement of exploring new frontiers and <a href="/explore/worldwide/how-to-get-the-best-deals-for-flights" target="_blank" title="How to Score the Best Deals on Flights">buy your plane tickets</a>, what are the downsides?</p> <h2 id="weather">7. What is the weather like in Georgia?</h2> <p>The ideal time to visit most of the country is between May and July and early September to October when it’s warm, sunny and not too hot or humid. In some parts of the country, temperatures reach 104ºF (40ºC) in high summer, a great time to visit the mountains but not the lower areas.</p> <p>In the east, winter temperatures are often below freezing, while around the Black Sea, the microclimate can be temperate.</p> <p>Georgia also happens to be one of the wettest countries in the region, which makes it incredibly lush and beautiful, but in winter, ice and heavy snow make it hazardous – particularly in mountain areas, so it’s important to be properly equipped with chains on tires to drive safely.</p> <h2 id="crime">8. Crime in Georgia</h2> <p>While general crime levels are low compared to large European and American cities, it is always smart, particularly in crowded areas, to be extra careful with your belongings – wallets, passports, money, cameras and phones in particular.</p> <p>Avoid wearing obvious signs of wealth such as expensive jewelry or watches, as <a href="/travel-safety/worldwide/9-tips-for-keeping-your-luggage-safe" target="_blank" title="How to keep your luggage safe">incidents of pickpocketing and burglary targeting visitors</a> have been reported, and these items will make you a target. </p> <h2 id="lgbtq">9. Is Georgia safe for LGBTQ+ travelers?</h2> <p>LGBTQ+ travelers are unlikely to attract hostility if you are discreet: the reality here is that while homosexuality is legal and Georgian lawmakers have moved recently to legislate against discrimination, social acceptance is not complete and the traditional, Christian values of the country make it a taboo subject in some places.</p> <p>Travel sites, such as Lonely Planet, report that two men or women sharing a bed is often not construed as having a sexual motive, and may be considered less risqué than an unmarried heterosexual couple seen to be doing the same.</p> <p>Tbilisi, for example, is a lively, cosmopolitan city, but in rural areas, discretion is key as their attitudes are much more conservative.</p> <p>All visitors should be particularly considerate and aware of cultural sensitivities around churches and religious sites. During a visit to the nunnery in the hills of Batumi this summer, we were provided with veils by a disapproving caretaker nun and learned next time to ensure our bare heads and arms were properly covered before entering chapels or churches.</p> <h2 id="cash">10. Do I need cash in local currency in Georgia?</h2> <p>Georgian currency is called the lari. Georgian law requires all prices to be expressed in lari and all goods and services to be paid in the national currency.</p> <p>Occasionally you might see prices quoted in Euros or US dollars, and both credit and debit cards are accepted in the major cities and towns. However, in regional areas ATMs are less easy to find, and if you are traveling in remote or rural areas, make sure you have enough cash.</p> <h2 id="disabled">11. Is traveling in Georgia difficult if you are disabled?</h2> <p>The harsh reality is that Georgian accessibility standards are very different from those required by the UK or EU, and from what I saw, anecdotally at least, public transport did not appear to be particularly accessible for disabled travelers. That said, the Georgians are kind, hospitable and helpful, so a helping hand would never be far away.</p> <h2 id="nature">12. Natural disasters in Georgia</h2> <p>Georgia is affected by seismic activity, and while small earthquakes are relatively common, there has not been a significant earthquake since 2009, which struck about 99mi (160km) southwest of Tbilisi, and measured 6.2 on the Richter scale.</p> <p>Safety rules apply:</p> <ul> <li>Drop (down to your knees)</li> <li>Cover (your head and neck with your arms, and if a sturdy table or desk is nearby, take shelter)</li> <li>And hold on (bend forward, hands and arms holding onto your neck).</li> <li>If you are outdoors, stay away from buildings but do not run outdoors and do not take shelter in a doorway.</li> </ul> <h2 id="women">13. Is Georgia safe for women traveling alone?</h2> <p>Georgia is a relaxed place to travel around, and I certainly felt as safe, if not safer in Batumi for example, than I sometimes feel walking in London late at night.</p> <p>Still, there are rules that I live by as a woman wherever I am, which are basically common-sense and these apply in Georgia too.</p> <p>In general, try not to walk unlit or unpopulated areas late at night, be aware of offers of drinks from strangers, try not to leave your drink unattended if you’re in a bar alone and be discreet with jewelry or cash.</p> <h2 id="podcast">Listen to The World Nomads Podcast: Georgia</h2> <iframe width="100%" height="190" src="https://webplayer.whooshkaa.com/episode/541020?theme=light" scrolling="no" frameborder="0"></iframe> <h3>Have you been to Georgia? Share your tips below!</h3>Getty Images/Ozbalci 1534560042 Getty Images Narikala Castle and view over Tbilisi, Georgia

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/travel-safety/middle-east/georgia/georgia-the-political-situationWhat is the political situation in Georgia? Is there a real risk of terrorism for travelers? Travel writer Paola Totaro investigates.2019-12-03T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/travel-safety/middle-east/georgia/georgia-the-political-situationhttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>If you’re interested in <a href="/travel-safety/middle-east/georgia/georgia-internal-travel" target="_blank" title="Is Georgia safe?">traveling to this intriguing part of the world</a>, it’s possible you’ll have read headlines about political unrest in Georgia.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#politics"> Politics in Georgia </a></li> <li><a href="#photography"> Photography laws in Georgia </a></li> <li><a href="#tension"> Tension in Abkhazia and South Ossetia </a></li> <li><a href="#guides"> Hire a local guide </a></li> <li><a href="#terrorism"> Is there a terrorism threat in Georgia? </a></li> <li><a href="#podcast"> Listen to The World Nomads Podcast: Georgia </a></li> </ul> <h2 id="politics">Politics in Georgia</h2> <p>Certainly, over the centuries, Georgia has been the subject of great rivalry between surrounding powers, including Persia (now <a href="/travel-safety/southern-asia/iran/lgbtq-and-womens-safety" target="_blank" title="LGBTQ+ travel and women's safety in Iran">Iran</a>), Russia and <a href="/travel-safety/middle-east/turkey/essential-safety-advice-for-travelers-in-turkey" target="_blank" title="Is Turkey safe?">Turkey</a> before Russia annexed Georgia in the 19<sup>th</sup> Century.</p> <p>But, the Georgians are fiercely independent people, with an indomitable spirit, principally Christian in faith and they have long refused to bow to anyone.</p> <p>When the Soviet Union collapsed, Georgia emerged to declare independence in 1991 but once again its geography has meant tension, with Russia worried about increasing US economic interests in the country and the Georgian desire to join NATO and the EU.</p> <p>Traveling to the places that illustrate this long and proud history of fighting for autonomy – from churches and monasteries to forts and strategically placed bridges built by the warrior Queen Tamar nearly 1,000 years ago – are all essential to discovering Georgia.</p> <h2 id="photography">Photography laws in Georgia</h2> <p>While mobile phones are ubiquitous these days, be aware photography around military barracks or installations, as well as infrastructure such as power stations, is not tolerated.</p> <p>Some cultural sites also have <a href="/create/learn/photography" target="_blank" title="Learn how to be a better travel photographer">photography</a> restrictions – look out for signs or ask your guide.</p> <p>Travelers have also reported being stopped from taking photos in places such as the Presidential Palace in Tbilisi. It is always best to ask for permission and better to be safe than sorry.</p> <h2 id="tension">Tension in Abkhazia and South Ossetia</h2> <p>Today, the only two parts of Georgia that travelers are discouraged to venture into are the separatist regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia. There was a brief war in 2008, thanks to Moscow’s support for their continuing political separation.</p> <p>Tensions remain high in both breakaway regions, and despite intense clearing work by several specialist charities, government travel advice in the UK and US continues to warn of a potential risk of landmines and unexploded ordnance in the parts of these regions where military operations have unfolded.</p> <p>Most western governments also do not recognize the unilateral declarations of independence made by the two regions, so check if your country offers any kind of consular assistance in these areas if you choose to ignore warnings and end up needing diplomatic help.</p> <p>You should be aware too that the so-called Administrative Boundary Lines with Abkhazia and South Ossetia are generally not marked, so if you are taking a road trip, be careful not to cross them inadvertently, as you could risk being arrested.</p> <h2 id="guides">Hire a local guide</h2> <p>Travelers who plan hiking close to these borders are advised not to go it alone but to hire local, professional guides.</p> <p>Importantly, it is illegal under Georgian law to enter the country from Russia via South Ossetia or Abkhazia, and if you do enter this way, you could face criminal prosecution – which carries big fines and/or a prison sentence.</p> <p>If your passport has entry or exit stamps from the separatist areas, the Georgian authorities may consider this as an illegal entry too. </p> <p>Keeping a copy of your passport in a safe place is important for any traveler.</p> <h2 id="terrorism">Is there a terrorist threat in Georgia?</h2> <p>Apart from these two areas of instability, the political situation in general in Georgia is calm, and visitors are more likely to experience a friendly welcome and spirited hospitality from locals rather than anything unpleasant.</p> <p>Small-scale political protests and rallies, particularly in the administrative capital, Kutaisi, outside the old parliament building in Tbilisi and occasionally in Batumi, do occur relatively regularly but do not represent a threat to visitors.</p> <p>Be sensible and <a href="/travel-safety/worldwide/safety-advice-civil-unrest" target="_blank" title="Staying Safe During Civil Unrest: 5 Essential Tips">avoid any type of protests or large demonstrations</a>.</p> <p>Of course, terrorist attacks in Georgia can’t be ruled out – terrorism can occur anywhere in the modern world, and can affect foreign visitors as well as places visited by foreigners.</p> <p>Crime is low in Georgia compared to many European and American cities, but always be careful with your belongings and avoid showing signs of wealth that may cause pickpockets or potential thieves to target you.</p> <h2 id="podcast">Listen to The World Nomads Podcast: Georgia</h2> <iframe width="100%" height="190" src="https://webplayer.whooshkaa.com/episode/541020?theme=light" scrolling="no" frameborder="0"></iframe>Getty Images/KavalenkavaVolha 1855063192 Getty Images Night aerial view of Old Town, Tbilisi, Georgia