Amy McPherson

Amy McPhersonhttps://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/about/contributors/amy-mcphersonAmy McPhersonhttps://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/europe/germany/winter-adventuresGermany is especially charming in winter, with ice skating on frozen canals, hiking through forests, ice-wine tasting and crowd-free skiing.2021-11-30T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/europe/germany/winter-adventureshttps://www.worldnomads.com<ul> <li><a href="#wine"> Winter wine in the Rhine and Mosel Valleys</a></li> <li><a href="#skating">Skating Hamburg's frozen waterways </a></li> <li><a href="#skiing"> Inexpensive skiing in Bavaria</a></li> <li><a href="#hiking">Winter hiking and snowshoeing in the Black Forest</a></li> <li><a href="#markets">Christmas markets in Dresden </a></li> </ul> <p>I came to love Germany quite by accident. A school friend’s family spoke German at home, and every time I visited them, I wished I knew what they were chatting about. So, I chose to study German at university and spent a year living in Germany, where I discovered a country filled with diverse traditions, storybook town centers, and adventures for every season. To my surprise, after all the times I’ve returned to visit, it was winter that really charmed me. Think of narrow, snow-dusted lanes between colorful houses, of the sound of crackling fireplaces inside jolly beer halls, of clutching a bag of warm chestnuts from street sellers while shopping for festive knickknacks. All of these sum up Germany in winter for me.</p> <p>When it comes to winter activities, there's a lot more to be experienced here than the usual loop around the Christmas markets.</p> <h2 id="wine">Winter wine in the Rhine and Mosel Valleys</h2> <p>Koblenz, located right on the two rivers’ confluence approx. 60 mi (96km) northwest of Frankfurt, is a great base to explore these two wine regions. When in town, I often head up the hill to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress for the best view of the city below, as well as the surrounding valleys and vineyards.</p> <p>While the Mosel Valley is famous for its Riesling, there’s something very special about the winter vineyard tours in these parts – the Ice Wine (<em>Eiswein</em>) of the Rhine Valley. The Germans have been making this sweet, sticky dessert wine, made from frozen grapes, for centuries.</p> <p>A perfect day in the Mosel and Rhine Valleys would be a lunch cruise on the river for superb viewing of the many castles that line the banks and a chance to try the regional dishes – unlike a lot of “German” food served in restaurants outside Germany, it’s not all sausages and sauerkraut – before a winery visit (or two) in the afternoon to sample wines of the valleys.</p> <p>You can get to Koblenz on a direct train connection from Frankfurt that runs along the Rhine. Make sure to grab a window seat on the right side of the train for great views of the river and villages on your journey.</p> <h2 id="skating">Skating Hamburg's frozen waterways</h2> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/germany/Aussenalster river skaters.jpg" alt="“river" skating="" /> <figcaption> Skaters on the frozen Aussenalster River in Hamburg. Photo credit: Getty Images / Joern Pollex </figcaption></figure> <p>Hamburg has come a long way from its industrial port city origins. This hip city, in the north of Germany on the River Elbe between the North and Baltic seas, has been an important trade route and port of migration to the New World since medieval times. Consequently, the city has always been more open-minded than other areas of Germany. Summer in Hamburg is sunny and warm, but in winter, the city turns into a frozen metropolis like something out of a cartoon – cool in every sense and ideal for activities that celebrate winter.</p> <p>At any other time of the year, Hamburg’s waterways bustle with shipping and cruising activities but in winter, when the temperature drops, the canals and lakes around the city can freeze over, creating a wintery playground. For me, there’s no better symbol of the season than a pair of ice skates.</p> <p>I’ll never forget my first experience of skating on the Alster Lakes: the feeling of freedom, with the shoreline serving as the only barrier, and the natural fear of skating on thin ice… it’s definitely a winter adventure worth visiting for.</p> <h2 id="skiing">Inexpensive skiing in Bavaria</h2> <p>A European <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/ski-snowboard-travel-insurance">ski holiday</a> often brings to mind expensive resorts and the international crowds of the French and Swiss Alps, and yet, just over the border, Germany has a good share of cheaper ski areas with equal quality snow and fewer crowds. The popular Garmisch-Partenkirchen, near the famed Schloss Neuschwanstein in Bavaria (the magical castle from which Disney drew its inspiration), is one of the most perfect ski resorts in Germany.</p> <p>The highlight here would be Zugspitze (“Top of Germany”) on the Austrian border – it’s a good starting point even for the non-skiers. Take the cable car to the peak for amazing views of the surrounding mountains before you tackle the runs down. Numerous walking trails are an additional pleasure, with walks along the river, behind frozen waterfalls, and over snow-covered rocks.</p> <p>There are plenty of other snow resorts along the Austrian border, but my favorite Bavarian ski area is Hoherbogen, northeast of Munich close to the border with the Czech Republic. Floodlit pistes make night skiing a spectacular experience, and the 8.6mi (14km) toboggan run always bring out the kid in my heart.</p> <h2 id="hiking">Winter hiking and snowshoeing in the Black Forest</h2> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/germany/Black forest snowshoeing.jpg" alt="“Back" forest="" snowshoeing="" /> <figcaption>Two snowshoe hikers on the Schauinsland mountain in the Black Forest. Photo credit: Getty Images / Patrick Seeger/DPA/AFP </figcaption></figure> <p>For more than 100 years, Germany’s Black Forest, in the southwest of the country, has been a paradise for <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/hiking-travel-insurance">hikers and walkers</a> with its dense stands of beech, pine, and oak. The Brothers Grimm used the Black Forest as the backdrop to many of their fairy tales, and it was their images of the candy hut from <em>Hansel and Gretel</em> and the tower where Rapunzel was kept that first drew me to the region. Hiking along the countless, well-marked trails in winter heightens the fairy tale sensation, and the views of the valley from the top of the hills are worth getting out in the cold for.<br /><br />It’s best to hire a car and drive to the destinations as many trails are round trips where you start and end at a car park or a nearby village.</p> <p>From a short walk just under 2mi (3.2km) around the Überskopf peak, to a longer 5mi (8km) panoramic snowshoe tour around the village of Breitnau, or a 4mi (6.4km) sightseeing loop to visit charming mountain huts around Rinkenpass at the foot of the Feldberg, you could plan your day accordingly. A lovely village-based option is a 5.2mi (8.4km) track from the town of Schluchsee (with a lake of the same name) up the hill into the forest to end in the town of Lenzkirch, where you could choose to stay in Lenzkirch to enjoy more hiking on the surrounding trails the next day, or hike back to Schluchsee via another route.</p> <p>One of the benefits of winter hiking in the Black Forest region is the thermal spas. After a day in the cold, head to Badenweiler, Bad Bellingen, or Bad Krozingen to relax in the warm spring waters. What better way to end a winter hiking adventure?</p> <h2 id="markets">Christmas markets in Dresden</h2> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/germany/Historic-Christmas-Market-on-the-Neumarkt.jpg" alt="Historic Christmas Market on the Neumark." /> <figcaption>Historic Christmas Market on the Neumarkt. Photo credit: Getty Images / Robert Michael/dpa-Zentralbild/ZB</figcaption></figure> <p>The eastern German city of Dresden is often missed by visitors but it’s one of the cities that I love at Christmas. No winter story on Germany can be complete without the mention of Christmas markets <span>–</span> a tradition that pre-dates tourism history which are found in almost every city, town, and village in the country <span>–</span> but it’s in Dresden where you’ll find the oldest, dating back to 1434.</p> <p class="p2">Dresden was one of the most beautiful Baroque cities in the world before being largely destroyed in World War II, and much of its architecture has been painstakingly rebuilt to its original features. Between mid-November and 24 December each year, this city is filled with Christmas delights.</p> <p class="p2">There are usually five Christmas markets dotted around the city with different themes. My favorite thing to do is to let the steam of a mug of hot <i>Gluewein</i> (mulled wine) warm my face as I stroll by each stall, browsing the handicrafts and sampling local snacks.</p> <p class="p2">Follow your nose to the baked goods and get a loaf of the traditional Dresdenerstollen, a pastry filled with dried fruits and nuts, that pairs especially well with mulled wine. Every baker has their own secret ingredients to their version of Stollen, so I always make sure to sample at least three.</p> <p class="p2">Pay a visit to the Christmas Garden, or to add to the festive cheer, go to a Classical Advent Concert in the impressive Zwinger Palace.</p>Getty Images/Bernd März/picture alliance 0

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/northern-europe/lithuania/exploring-the-legends-and-landscapes-of-the-curonian-spitAmy McPherson travels to Lithuania and learns the story of Neringa and the Hill of Witches.2019-01-02T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/northern-europe/lithuania/exploring-the-legends-and-landscapes-of-the-curonian-spithttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>I am roaming the forests of Witches Hill to uncover the story of Neringa and other folklore creatures of Lithuania. It’s a place where many of these tales are told through sculptures of dragons, witches and monsters, including the Devil, whose presence I am particularly drawn to. Seeing that I am among creatures of the dark, I might as well befriend the highest power of them all.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#neringa"> The story of Neringa </a></li> <li><a href="#deaddunes"> The Dead Dunes </a></li> <li><a href="#wildlife"> Wildlife </a></li> <li><a href="#fishing"> Fishing heritage </a></li> <li><a href="#cakes"> Lithuanian cakes </a></li> <li><a href="#notes"> Trip notes </a></li> </ul> <h2 id="neringa">The story of Neringa</h2> <p>The Witches Hill is in the settlement of Juodkrante on Neringa, the Lithuanian part of the Curonian Spit, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of unique sandbank landscape that stretches 60mi (98km) across the Baltic Sea from the coast of Lithuania to Russia’s outpost of Kaliningrad.</p> <p>The spit was formed 5,000 years ago by the movement of the sea, sand and wind, three elements that still play an important part to the livelihood and natural conservation of the area.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/lithuania/curonian-spit-walking-path-amy-mcpherson.jpg" /> <figcaption>Roaming the forests. Photo credit: Amy McPherson</figcaption></figure> <p>Legend has it that Neringa was a friendly and good-hearted giantess who called the coast of Lithuania home. Her beauty attracted the attention of an evil dragon Naglis, who wanted to marry her. Neringa refused the proposal which sent Naglis into a rage, stirring up storms from the sea to destroy the coastline. To protect her home and those who live among it, she tipped a strip of sand across the sea to ease the effects of the storm, forming what we know as the Curonian Spit today.</p> <p>In honor of their heroin, the Lithuanian part of the Curonian Spit is named Neringa, after the giantess who saved them.</p> <p>And on Witches Hill, the legend of Neringa and other Lithuanian folklore are told through 100 wooden sculptures dotted around a tranquil forest, including my new good friend, Lucifer.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/lithuania/curonian-spit-statues-lithuania-amy-mcpherson.jpg" /> <figcaption>Statues found in Lithuania's Curonian Spit. Photo credit: Amy McPherson</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="deaddunes">The Dead Dunes</h2> <p>Leaving the witches in peace, I visit one of the most famous sights on Neringa – the Dead Dunes.</p> <p>Stretching for almost 62mi (100km) along the sea coast of the Curonian Spit is Nagliu Nature Reserve, a vast area of Grey Dunes, also called Dead Dunes, where sand had covered former settlements and centuries-old wood soils. Supposedly, this is the last stretch of Neringa’s ribbon of sand that is still protecting the villages and settlements on the Spit, and the main coastal region of Lithuania, by stopping sand blown from the sea to enter further towards the Curonian Lagoon and onwards to the mainland.</p> <p>I meet a guide from the national park, and we explore the dunes at Pardinis near Nida. I park my bike at the car park, and we walk along the wooden boardwalk towards the roaring sea where I come face to face with the Grey and White Dunes, still being shifted and shaped by the forces of nature every day.</p> <p>Despite the desert-like environment, the eco-system is surprisingly alive. Other than the different sand grasses, the dunes support a variety of vegetation such as daphne willow, rugosa rose (also known as beach rose) and the seemingly delicate (but tough) Baltic searocket with its purple flowers. Darting among them are the little tawny pipits and woodlarks.</p> <p>I follow the path to the end, where the dunes drop dramatically into the ocean and an observation tower had been erected. This is where you can see Russia, advised my guide who points in the direction of a small headland in the distance. This is Kalinigrad, the Russian state which shares the protection of the Curonian Spit with Lithuania. When it comes to nature, perhaps there’s room for teamwork after all.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/lithuania/walking-platform-curonian-spit-sand-dunes-lithuania-amy-mcpherson.jpg" /> <figcaption>Walking along the pathway through the sand dunes. Photo credit: Amy McPherson</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="wildlife">Wildlife in the Curonian Spit</h2> <p>I’m exploring the Curonian Spit by bike, which is the perfect way to experience this unique natural and cultural destination. Spinning at a pace of my own, I’m able to notice more things than if I was exploring by car.</p> <p>One thing that amazes me, is the amount of wild birds on both sides of the Spit. At a beach along the sea coast, thousands of migratory birds swoop past my line of sight, en masse, following their natural instincts influenced by the season and the wind.</p> <p>On the lagoon end, a curious gathering of herons and cormorants have formed a colony that is not entirely natural to their behavior, yet, about half a mile away from Juodkrante lives the largest and one of the oldest colonies of these birds in Lithuania. Around 2,500 nests of cormorants and more than 500 nests of herons are believed to live here, and what a sight. Enough to slow me down so much that I almost fall off my bike!</p> <h2 id="fishing">Fishing heritage</h2> <p>Being a coastal region, the locals of Neringa have always relied on the sea and the lagoon for survival, and fishing has a long history in the livelihood of those who live here.</p> <p>Along the coastal path around Nida, poles topped with weather vanes that used to crown the mast of a traditional fishing boat (<em>kurenas</em>) create a curious and pleasant sight while exploring the town, and at the Ethnographic Fisherman’s Museum, which is an old wooden fisherman’s cottage, I learn how these fishermen lived and worked, what the symbols on the weather vanes mean, and how the trade changed throughout history. </p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/lithuania/lithuania-boat-amy-mcpherson.jpg" /> <figcaption>Onboard a traditional boat. Photo credit: Amy McPherson</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="cakes">Lithuanian cakes</h2> <p>Following the well-paved coastal path, which stretches roughly 31mi (50km) along the coast on the Curonian Spit, I pedal a leisurely 1.2mi (2km) back to the center of Nida, and visit a local bakery for a post-exercise snack. Mesmerized by the range of cakes available, I seek advice from the lady behind the counter, and I’m handed pieces of carrot candy and slices of the local wholegrain bread.</p> <p>I order a cup of coffee and enjoy the treats under the watchful eyes of the owner. I ponder on her question: “How do you like Neringa?” </p> <p>The giantess or the land? I counter.</p> <p>She laughs.</p> <p>“We’ll make you a local yet.”</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/lithuania/neringa-amy-mcpherson.jpg" /> <figcaption>Streets of Neringa. Photo credit: Amy McPherson</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="notes">Trip notes</h2> <h3>Getting around</h3> <p>Neringa (the Curonian Spit) can be accessed by ferry from the city of Klaipeda. Foot ferry crossing cost US $1.15 (€1) and bikes can travel on the ferry for free.</p> <p>The most rewarding way to explore Neringa is by bicycle, and bike hire can be arranged in Klaipeda or on the Spit itself in the town of Nida.</p> <h3>When to go</h3> <p>The most pleasant months to visit are between June and August. If you’re planning a long cycle adventure, May and September with temperatures averaging around 62ºF (17<span>º</span>C) are be better suited for the physical activity and to avoid crowds.</p> <h3>Protecting the environment</h3> <p>As the Curonian Spit is a protected UNESCO Heritage Site, it’s important that you observe the etiquettes of nature to help preserve this unique natural landscape. Take your rubbish with you, if you cannot find a bin; when walking, cycling or driving, stay on designated paths and public areas to avoid trampling the delicate eco-system; and do not feed the wildlife.</p>Amy McPherson 0