Mark Eveleigh

Mark Eveleighhttps://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/about/contributors/mark-eveleighMark Eveleighhttps://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/southeast-asia/indonesia/discover-west-baliWhile crowds flock to southern Bali’s beaches and sea temples, the west is still off the tourist radar – despite being rich in culture, wildlife, and natural beauty. Find out the best things to do and places to explore in West Bali.2024-06-20T10:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/southeast-asia/indonesia/discover-west-balihttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>Bali these days has a reputation for being overdeveloped and overcrowded. Yet, few people realize the majority of that development is packed into a very tiny area – most of it within a radius of less than 1.5 hours’ drive from the airport.</p> <p>To claim that Bali is overdeveloped is like flying into JFK, spending a long weekend in Manhattan and then complaining that there’s no greenery left in the USA.</p> <p>Canggu – the western extreme of Bali’s heavily developed zone – lies an hour’s drive along the coast from Bali’s international airport. The traffic within this tiny area can be atrocious, it’s true, but explore just a few miles west of Canggu and you very quickly find yourself among paddy fields and rural communities where foreign faces are rarely seen.</p> <p>The world-famous, UNESCO-protected rice paddies at Jatiluwih attract logjams of tour buses but there are mind-boggling expanses of paddies in West Bali (Soka, for example, or the terraces surrounding Negara city) that are almost unknown to the outside world. Keep heading west for an hour and you’ll find yourself swooping past plantations of coconut palms that thin in places to reveal deserted beaches and unsurfed waves. Less than 30mi (50km) from Canggu you’ll be astounded by the vast range of uninhabited jungle hills that, even today, cover about a tenth of the island’s total area. Welcome to Bali’s Wild West.</p> <p>Here just five of the many unique experiences that can only be found in Bali’s least-known region.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#buffalo">Walk with pink buffalo in Pekutatan</a></li> <li><a href="#park">Trek or dive at West Bali National Park</a></li> <li><a href="#fleet">See the world’s most vibrant fishing fleet at Perancak</a></li> <li><a href="#temples">Visit secluded Balinese temples and churches</a></li> <li><a href="#drive">Take one of the world’s most beautiful road trips</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="buffalo">Walk with pink buffalo in Pekutatan</h2> <p>Wherever you go in West Bali you’ll be charmed by a warm welcome. The little town of Pekutatan, in Jembrana Regency, is one of the best places to experience traditional Hindu culture and one of the few places on the planet where you’ll still see (almost extinct) pink buffalo – yes, completely pink! – plowing the rice fields. When Pekutatan rice-farmer Pak Sudana invites visitors on a unique beach-walk with his small herd of pink buffalo the star of the show is always the unbelievably cute calf Pinkko.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/west-bali/pinkko-2.jpg" alt="A pink water buffalo and calf in West Bali." /> <figcaption>Pinkko and mama. Image credit: Komang Adi </figcaption></figure> <p>Pak Sudana has found a sustainable way to conserve his small herd without selling them either for sacrifices (a common occurrence in rural Bali) or for exploitation in the brutal <em>mekepung</em> (buffalo chariot-racing) events that take place early most Sunday mornings in the paddies south of Negara city.</p> <h2 id="park">Trek or dive at West Bali National Park</h2> <p>Lying less than mile off West Bali’s extreme northern tip, Menjangan Island is certainly West Bali’s best-known tourism drawcard, luring <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/scuba-diving-travel-insurance">snorkelers and divers</a> with diverse marine life that includes turtles, reef sharks, barracuda, dolphins and even, at times, whale sharks.</p> <p>Most visitors tend to arrive (often with tours run from the nearby dive-town of Pemuteran) for a quick half-day snorkeling session and then move on without ever realizing that West Bali National Park also has wonderful potential for land-based activities. You can go <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/hiking-travel-insurance">jungle trekking</a>, <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/mountain-biking">explore by mountain bike</a>, by car, or even on <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/horse-riding">horseback</a> and, if you’re in the company of a knowledgeable and experienced guide, you have an excellent chance of seeing some unique wildlife.</p> <p>Large herds of sambar deer (known in Balinese as <em>menjangan</em>) – including majestic stags with towering antlers – are commonly seen browsing at the edge of the mangrove forests. They’re surprisingly tame and if you take a chance to stay at the lovely Menjangan Resort (one of only three properties within the park boundaries) you’re sure to come face-to-face with them.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/west-bali/sanbar-deer.jpg " alt="A small herd of wild sanbar deer rest on the beach in West Bali National Park." /> <figcaption>Wild sambar deer on the beach at West Bali National Park. Image credit: Getty Images / Bicho_raro</figcaption></figure> <p>Along with the ubiquitous macaques there are also endemic Balinese ebony leaf monkeys (looking a lot like black gibbons), huge monitor lizards, civets, and giant black squirrels (big as domestic cats). You’re almost certain to see Bali starling, one of the world’s rarest birds and the island’s own ‘bird of paradise’ among the park’s still-growing list of 205 species.</p> <h2 id="fleet">See the world’s most vibrant fishing fleet at Perancak</h2> <p>The little low-key surf town of Medewi is the hub of West Bali’s southern coast. Few surfers heading to <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/surfing">the main surf spot</a> (known for its viciously jagged rocks) even take time to glance at the unique <em>jukung</em> fishing outriggers that tackle the pounding waves – sometimes even launching completely airborne.</p> <p>But even these colorful boats, with their animistic carved deer-head effigies (known as <em>menjangan</em>) pale into insignificance next to the traditional fishing fleet at Perancak. With their ornately gaudy paintwork and ranks of propellers (often eight to a boat), these majestic 65ft (20m) vessels seem like brightly painted, day-glo Viking longboats.</p> <p>It seems incredible that ‘the world’s most spectacular traditional fishing fleet’ (according to the Australian National Maritime Museum) lies at anchor just 40mi (64km) from Bali’s tourist heartland and yet you’ll rarely ever see a visitor here. More than 100 of these <em>selerek</em> – all moored in pairs since they operate in what are described as ‘husband and wife’ teams – are often found at anchor the river inlet at Perancak and at the nearby Pengambengan harbor.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/west-bali/fishing-boats.jpg" alt="A fleet of brighly colored selerek fishing boats in Perancak, West Bali." /> <figcaption>Pairs of brightly colored <em>selerek</em> in Perancak. Image credit: Mark Eveleigh</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="temples">Visit secluded Balinese temples and churches</h2> <p>The great ‘Sea Temples’ of Bali are among the most iconic sights on the island. Uluwatu and Tanah Lot are instantly recognizable thanks to a million dramatic sunset selfies, but West Bali’s Rambut Siwi commands even more spectacular views along more than 10mi (16km) of deserted beach. The best thing is that (unless there’s a typically vibrant and exciting <em>odalan</em> ceremony) you’re likely to enjoy sunset here in complete solitude.</p> <p>Legend has it that the Javanese high priest Danghyang Nirartha passed this way sometime in the 16th century and cured a terrible epidemic. When local inhabitants begged him to stay the priest left them a lock of his hair as protection. The hair (<em>rambut</em>) is considered sacred (<em>siwi</em>) and remains locked in a special shrine at Rambut Siwi Temple to this day.</p> <p>While the region is predominantly Hindu, large Muslim communities (specifically around Medewi, for example) add their own culture, cuisine, and traditions to the fascination of a trip through West Bali.</p> <p>There’s also the Brahma Vihara Arama Buddhist monastery (like a miniature Balinese Borobudur) and, in the predominantly Catholic community of Palasari (a hour’s drive west of Rambut Siwi), you find The Sacred Heart of Jesus Church. Built in 1958,a this unexpectedly immense church (with a congregation that’s said to number 1,300) is a curious mix of Dutch and Balinese architectural influences.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/west-bali/sacred-heart-church.jpg" alt="The Sacred Heart of Jesus Church in West Bali." /> <figcaption>The Sacred Heart of Jesus Church, with its eclectic mix of styles. Image credit: Mark Eveleigh</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="drive">Take one of the world’s most beautiful road trips</h2> <p>Only one road cuts north to south through the West Bali jungle. Connecting Pekutatan on the south coast with Seririt on the north, it is surely one of Asia’s most beautiful roads. It’s best to start the drive at dawn to enjoy views of sunrise over Batukaru Mountain. On the western side of the road, mist rises out of jungle valleys that are still home to herds of wild pigs, flying foxes, wreathed hornbills (Bali’s biggest bird) and occasional rumors of (officially long extinct) Bali tigers.</p> <p>The road climbs steeply from the south through forest of cacao (chocolate), rubber, and cloves. You’ll notice strange towers where domesticated swiftlets are farmed (harmlessly) for their edible nests. The sacred tree known as Bunut Bolong forms a tunnel right over the road that’s big enough for cars, and even lorries, to pass through. Just to be on the safe side, you might want to copy local drivers and salute the spirits with a polite toot-toot on the horn as you pass through.</p> <p>From here you climb onward through fruit orchards (rambutan and durian) and coffee plantations until the road starts to descend towards the unexpectedly arid north coast where you’ll see cactus, dragonfruit, cashew plantations, sugarcane, and even vineyards.</p> <p>You’ll realize that on this northern coast, too, West Bali has a lot of surprises in store.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/west-bali/sunrise-over-paddies.jpg" alt="Sun rises over a mountain and rice paddies in West Bali." /> <figcaption>Sunrise over the rice paddies. Image credit: Mark Eveleigh</figcaption></figure> <h2>Trip notes</h2> <h3>How to get there/get around</h3> <p>The journey out to West Bali is short but Java-bound traffic on the main road can be intense. Hiring a scooter is cheap and convenient but don’t underestimate the journey. Unless you have a lot of experience it’s wisest to find a reliable local driver and rent a scooter upon arrival.</p> <h3>Where to stay</h3> <p>Tourism is in its relative infancy in West Bali but you can still find excellent accommodation to suit all budgets, from dorms and simple cold-water backpacker rooms to high-end resorts and designer hideaways. For ideas see <a href="http://www.westbali.net/" target="_blank">www.WestBali.net</a>.</p> <h3>Best time of year to go</h3> <p>Rainy season typically runs from November to March but there’s really no bad time to be in West Bali. Even at the height of the rains, showers tend to be short, sharp, and dramatic and are typically interspersed with blissful spells of tropical sunshine.</p> <h3>Permits for West Bali National Park</h3> <p>You need to pay conservation fees for all activities in the park (currently US$12 / Rp200,000) and guides are necessary for all activities. Mohamed Idriss (WhatsApp +62 823 4018 5768) is the best point of contact to arrange activities – whether land- or water-based – in the park.</p>Getty Images / Bicho_raro 11181543490 Getty Images A family sits on an elevated deck overlooking West Bali National Park.

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/travel-safety/southeast-asia/indonesia/how-to-behave-when-visiting-baliHere’s what you need to know if you intend to show respect…and not fall foul of Bali’s official restrictions on tourist behavior. 2023-08-08T10:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/travel-safety/southeast-asia/indonesia/how-to-behave-when-visiting-balihttps://www.worldnomads.com<p><span><a href="/explore/southeast-asia/indonesia/why-i-love-and-hate-bali">Bali</a> has been in the news countless times recently because of the disrespectful behavior of a minority of foreigners. While some worry that bad behavior is on the rise, those who know the island well will admit that it’s always been there. The fact is that instant exposure over the internet has made relatively rare incidents more noticeable than ever. </span></p> <p><span>In May 2023, the <em>Jakarta Post</em> reported that 101 foreigners were deported in the past four months, including 27 Russians, eight British and six Australians, for infringements including overstaying visas, illegally working disrespectful behavior and pornography. </span></p> <p><span>In some cases, foreigners were unaware that they were even causing offense: the two Polish tourists, who were deported for ignoring the island-wide Nyepi (Day of Silence) lockdown, were apparently unaware of the repercussions of their act; the Russian ‘influencer’ who posed naked next to a sacred 700-year-old tree apparently had no idea that the photo could have landed her with six years in jail.</span></p> <p><span>Ignorance is no defense, however, and Bali’s Governor I Wayan Koster has now issued a list of rules that tourists should abide by. Here’s what you need to know if you intend to show respect…and not fall foul of Bali’s official restrictions on tourist behavior. </span></p> <ul> <li><a href="#1">Dress respectfully in Bali</a></li> <li><a href="#2"> Respectful etiquette at temples </a></li> <li><a href="#3"> Traffic rules in Bali</a></li> <li><a href="#4"> Pornography in Bali</a></li> <li><a href="#5"> Volcano climbing in Bali</a></li> <li><a href="#6">Learn the local language in Bali</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="1"><strong><span>Dress respectfully in Bali</span></strong></h2> <p><span>Always dress respectfully, with a sarong and shoulder-covering, at temples and religious events. (Temples that tend to be popular with tourists often have sarongs, sashes and shawls to lend/rent.)<br /><br /></span>In 2018, international media reported on what was said to be ‘the Bali bikini ban’. Rather than banning beachwear on what is, after all, one of the world’s most famous tropical islands, the ban was merely a proposed restriction on wearing bikinis beyond the beach. Balinese people are famously easy-going and even in rural villages you’re unlikely to hear anyone complain about what, to them must seem unforgivable rudeness when they see a shirtless foreigner.<br /><br />One unusual aspect of Bali’s Hindu religion (now listed in the official rules) is that women who are menstruating must remain outside the temple and that the inner sanctums of Hindu temples are off-limits unless you’ve been invited inside. If in doubt ask a local: “<em>harus pakaian adat</em>?” (Is ceremonial costume necessary?).</p> <h2 id="2"><strong><span>Respectful etiquette at temples</span></strong></h2> <p><span>When visiting <a href="/explore/southeast-asia/indonesia/indonesia-etiquette-how-you-can-avoid-causing-offence">temples</a>, try not to disrupt people praying and don’t touch offerings, unless invited to during a ceremony. Keep voices low and at all costs avoid any aggressive (or overtly amorous) behavior. The Balinese hold modesty in high esteem and polite behavior is often rewarded with the honor of an invitation to join a ceremony (potentially a highlight of your trip to the Island of the Gods.)<br /><br /></span>If you want to take photos of people, always ask first. The easiest way to do this is simply to raise your camera and say “boleh?” (May I?)</p> <h2 id="3"><strong><span>Traffic rules in Bali</span></strong></h2> <p><span>Helmets have always been compulsory on <a href="/travel-safety/southeast-asia">motorbikes</a> but these days the rule is being enforced more heavily and traffic police are also cracking down on motorcyclists without valid driving licenses. </span></p> <p class="p1">If you choose to ride consider <a href="https://www.worldnomads.com/">travel insurance</a> and be sure to comply with its requirements, such as riding with a helmet and being appropriately licensed to ride at your destination.</p> <p><span>Videos have gone viral of visitors arguing with traffic police. It’s not an argument they were ever likely to win, of course, and a few overly-entitled foreigners have been deported for their trouble. </span></p> <p><span>Strict anti-corruption policies make it an offense to try to bribe a police officer.</span></p> <h2 id="4"><strong><span>Pornography in Bali</span></strong></h2> <p><span>Most travelers are aware that Indonesia has zero-tolerance drug laws (sometimes involving death by firing squad) but many remain unaware of the strict anti-pornography rules.<br /><br /></span>A few influencers who thought that a downward dog in a designer yoga kit at a temple gateway was the ultimate iconic Bali image have had rude awakenings when they realized that such images –defined as pornography under Indonesia’s strict laws – could land them in prison for six years or more.</p> <p><span>So much of this ‘island of a million temples’ is considered holy ground that it would be smartest to refrain from posting photos in skimpy attire beyond the beach zone. <br /><br /></span>In December 2022, the Indonesian government ratified what the Australian press called the ‘Bali bonk ban’– a blanket ban on cohabiting, making it illegal for non-married people to share a hotel bed. Bali’s governor very quickly clarified that the law would not apply to tourists.</p> <h2 id="5"><strong><span>Volcano climbing in Bali</span></strong></h2> <p><span>In June 2023, <em>CNN</em> reported that climbing would be banned on all of Bali’s 22 sacred peaks ‘with immediate effect’ but the Ministry of Tourism now says that it is only Mount Agung (the highest and most sacred mountain) that is off-limits for recreational climbing. The hugely popular sunrise hikes on Mount Batur continue with more than 200 people climbing on an average morning. </span></p> <p><span>If Balinese people as a whole prefer that outsiders refrain from climbing their sacred volcanoes then that wish should, of course, be respected without question. Not so long ago a similar decision was reached on Australia’s <a href="/explore/oceania/australia/top-places-to-go-in-the-northern-territory">Uluru</a>: despite having been a sacred site for the Anangu people since time immemorial, it was only in 2019 that the traditional owners’ ongoing request to ban climbing was finally passed as law. Prior to that, there had been decades of bad behavior in the form of tourists literally tramping across local beliefs in their quest for a selfie on the summit of the world’s biggest monolith.</span></p> <p><span>The average Balinese person seems to see nothing disrespectful about tourists climbing their sacred mountains and it seems that the only time when offense was taken was during nude (or semi-nude) photo shoots on the summits.</span></p> <h2 id="6"><strong><span>Learn the local language in Bali</span></strong></h2> <p><span>Just a few phrases of Indonesian (or, even better, Balinese) are likely to win a welcoming smile from the typically hospitable islanders. <em>Om swastiastu</em> is often translated as ‘peace be upon you’ but effectively it stands in as simple ‘hello’. In ceremonial or religious situations it should be accompanied with hands raised in prayer position. </span></p> <p>The Bali Tourism Board is now promoting an ad campaign asking travelers to behave more respectfully. This was like the Thailand Tourism Board placing huge billboards along the highway near Bangkok’s international airport, asking foreigners to refrain from the sacrilegious practice of adorning themselves with Buddhist tattoos. (The signs were printed with the words ‘Buddha is not for decoration’…yet, 3,000km to the south in Hindu Bali hundreds of, supposedly culturally-sensitive, expat-owned yoga retreats are inexplicably decorated with giant effigies of Buddha. Some say that while respecting Hindu beliefs on the host island, these places would do well also to respect Buddhist sensibilities.)</p> <p><span>If the new restrictions frighten a few ignorant tourists into realizing that they are guests in another country, then the result can only be a positive one. </span></p> <p><span>The Balinese people are among the friendliest, most respectful people on the planet. They deserve to demand the same in return from their guests.</span></p>Getty Images/Francesco Riccardo Iacomino 11421329691 Getty Images Woman looking at Diamond beach, Nusa Penida, Indonesia

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/north-africa/morocco/why-tangier-is-an-underappreciated-destinationOld Tangier was a booming trading center long before more-famous Marrakech was even a camp for camel trains, and yet this historic city is inexplicably overlooked by visitors. 2021-12-06T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/north-africa/morocco/why-tangier-is-an-underappreciated-destinationhttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>The coast of <a href="/explore/europe/spain">Spain</a> lies just 9mi (14km) from my breakfast table and all of Africa lies spread out behind me. This is my 10th visit to Tangier, and I get the feeling that here, on the “balcony of Africa”, I’m in one of the most delightfully, and unexpectedly, cosmopolitan spots on our planet.</p> <p>I’m aware it’s best to order my <em>thé à la menthe</em> (mint tea) in French at the Hotel Continental. Down the road, in the bustling Petit Socco, the waiters at Café Central tend to speak Spanish, so that’s how I order my <em>café con leche</em>. Almost all the shopkeepers along Rue Siaghine, which runs through the heart of the <a href="/travel-safety/north-africa/morocco/safety-in-moroccos-souks-and-medina">medina</a> (the old walled city) speak English but farther up, in the French-built Ville Nouvelle, Arabic is more common. Even when two Moroccans meet in the street, Arabic might not be the common language because the Tangerine dialect, called Darija, is unique, borrowing many words from neighboring Andalucía.</p> <p>As befits the mysterious old International Zone, Tangier is a city with many facets to its character. Fleeting visitors rarely catch the magic of the place but if you take time to soak up the atmosphere, you’re likely to spark a fascination that will lure you back time after time.</p> <p>Old Tangier has an atmosphere incomparable to anywhere else <span>– </span>and yet this historic city is inexplicably overlooked by visitors who seem to view it as Marrakech’s poor relation. The key to getting to know Tangier lies in getting to know the various quarters.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#petit">Petit Socco</a></li> <li><a href="#medina">Tangier medina</a></li> <li><a href="#kasbah">The Kasbah</a></li> <li><a href="#coastline">The coastline</a></li> <li><a href="#trip-notes">Trip notes</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="petit">Petit Socco</h2> <p>One of the world’s most evocative literary hangouts, this tiny triangular plaza has seen literary greats such as Paul Bowles, William Burroughs, Truman Capote, Jack Kerouac, and Tennessee Williams. It’s one of the best places in Africa to simply sit and people watch. The upper floor of Café Fuentes (now a basic and noisy – but wonderfully located – hostel) is like a balcony box over the living theatre of Tangerine street-life.</p> <h2 id="medina">Tangier medina</h2> <p>As with most Moroccan cities, the real lure of Tangier lies in the old walled medina (the historic quarter). Rue Siaghine is the main pedestrian thoroughfare that connects the Petit Socco (literally the small souk) with the Grand Socco and this is the focal point for souvenir hunters. However, if you turn towards the coast at any point, you’ll find yourself in a mindboggling maze. Smaller in scale than the great labyrinths of <a href="/explore/north-africa/morocco/five-things-to-do-in-marrakech">Marrakech</a> and Fez, Tangier’s advantage is that you’ll begin to recognize alleys within a couple of days. These backstreets are studded with cafes and terraces – look out for Café Baba, Tangier hangout of everyone from the Rolling Stones to Barbara Hutton (socialite and heir to the Woolworths’ fortune, who lived in the house next door).</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/morocco/tangier/medina.jpg" alt="Steps lead through a whitewashed alley in Tangier's old medina." /> <figcaption>Tangier's old medina. Photo credit: Getty Images / Ruben Earth</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="kasbah">The Kasbah</h2> <p>Unless you have a guide – or are blessed by sheer luck – the most logical way to reach the Kasbah (the old fortress) is by following the road that sweeps northeast from Grand Socco. Standing in the great courtyard of the Kasbah you can see the main facets of Islamic life lined up in front of you: mosque, palace, treasury, and prison. Bab el-Assa (literally the gateway of the stick) is so-called since it was here that a very rough form of justice was once meted out. The old palace is now a fascinating museum – well worth a visit even though displays are only in Arabic and French – detailing the history of a city that is being considered for UNESCO World Heritage status and dates back more than 3,000 years.</p> <h2 id="coastline">The coastline</h2> <p>Tangier beach sweeps eastwards in a great curve from the port and the sparkling new marina. Take a walk down the beach and past the Corniche Gardens in the late afternoon and you’ll see friends, families, and courting couples strolling happily in the Mediterranean sunshine. For a couple of euros, you can even hire a horse (often surprisingly spirited gallopers) for a <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/horse-riding">canter along the waterline</a>. Follow the coast in the opposite direction (west of the old town) and you’ll arrive at the stepped terraces of Café Hafa, a Tangier icon and a wonderful place to watch the sun set onto the Spanish coast.</p> <h2 id="trip-notes">Trip notes</h2> <h3>Getting there and onward</h3> <p>Ibn Battuta International Airport makes Tangier the ideal starting point for a Moroccan adventure. Who could have imagined the day when sleepy Tangier would be the destination for Africa’s first high-speed <a href="/responsible-travel/make-a-difference/participation/the-return-of-train-travel">train line</a> (connecting the city with Casablanca, 211mi (340km) away, in two hours and 10 minutes)? The old Marrakech Express (immortalized in the 1969 song by Crosby, Stills, and Nash) is best taken as a leisurely and romantic overnight sleeper train which arrives around dawn.</p> <h3>Where to stay</h3> <p><strong>Budget Petit Socco:</strong></p> <p>Pension Fuentes (+212 5399-34669) is ideally located with balconied rooms (from only US $22/MAD 201) looking right onto the cafes of Petit Socco. It can be noisy at night, but the evocative charm of the prayer-call is hard to beat.</p> <p><strong>Mid-range Kasbah:</strong></p> <p><a href="http://kasbahrose.com/">Kasbah Rose</a> is a charming five-room guesthouse in the tangled alleys at the edge of the Kasbah, with wonderful views from the rooftop breakfast-terrace. This is the sort of place you might book in for a quick visit and end up staying 1001 nights.</p> <p><strong>High-end waterfront:</strong></p> <p><a href="https://hcontinental-tanger.com/">Hotel Continental</a> was once the ritziest hotel in Tangier and an element of faded charm and a wallet-friendly price tag (at US $40/MAD 366 for a sea-view room) inspires a romantic mood of International Zone sophistication.</p> <h3>Hire a guide</h3> <p>Koumila Marrakchi Mohammed was born in Tangier and four years of training has made him one of the most knowledgeable and reliable guides in the city. Ask for Mohammed when you book a tour to Tangier – or beyond – through <a href="https://www.tangier-private-tours.com/">tangier-private-tours.com</a>.</p>Mark Eveleigh 0 Mark Eveleigh Bab el-Assa (literally the gateway of the stick). one of the entrances to Tangier’s old Kasbah.

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/southern-africa/south-africa/kwandwe-south-africas-unsung-wildernessDiscover why this game reserve is a conservation victory – and one of South Africa’s best-kept secrets.2019-09-05T10:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/southern-africa/south-africa/kwandwe-south-africas-unsung-wildernesshttps://www.worldnomads.com<ul> <li><a href="#conservation">A wildlife conservation success story</a></li> <li><a href="#carbon-footprint">Taking the carbon out of your footprint</a></li> <li><a href="#trip-notes">Trip notes</a></li> </ul> <p>This was clearly the strangest thing on four legs that the leopard had ever seen. He snarled threateningly, but the table didn’t even tremble.</p> <p>I struggled to control my own excited trembling as I focused my Nikon. I’d never seen such a big leopard up close for so long and – standing halfway between me and my sundowner G&T – he was an intimidating sight.</p> <p>I’d spent the last three days exploring Kwandwe Private Game Reserve, in South Africa’s Eastern Cape. These 85mi<sup>2</sup> (220km<sup>2</sup>) of plains and craggy gorges offer intense wildlife sightings that would be hard to find even in far larger parks. With a maximum capacity of just 52 guests, the reserve provides the increasingly rare feeling that you’re alone in the immensity of the African wilderness. In the last few days, I’d perched in the back of the open Landcruiser just yards from hunting lions, and I’d had a grandstand VIP seat at several leopard hunting and courtship dramas. I’d even witnessed at close quarters the interactions of what could almost be described as a “pride” of cheetahs.</p> <p>“It’s extremely rare for five cheetah siblings to survive to adulthood,” ranger Brendan Dredge whispered, “and it’s almost unheard of for a usually solitary old male to form a coalition with his fully-grown son. Then for the two groups to interact, even temporarily…well, this is the only place in Africa I’ve seen as many as <em>eight</em> cheetah in a single group!”</p> <p>It was clear that relationships were strained, however, and that this rather dysfunctional family was not going to stick together for long.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/south-africa/kwandwe-leopard-sundowners-mark-eveleigh.jpg" /><figcaption>A leopard investigates a table set for sundowners. Image credit: Mark Eveleigh</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="conservation">A wildlife conservation success story</h2> <p>Brendan Dredge had the sort of intimate knowledge that can only come from years tracking animals, and his spotter colleague Mcebisi Yoli – known to his friends simply as “Dennis” – had spent his whole life with Kwandwe as his backyard.</p> <p>“You see that shepherd tree by the cliff?” Dennis asked me one morning as we circled a herd of rare black wildebeest. “I used to sit in the shade under that tree 40 years ago, when this was a field, and my father was a laborer here on what was called Mowbray farm.”</p> <p>The indigenous inhabitants of this area suffered heavily when this was a frontline in the Settler-Xhosa wars, and the wildlife was almost totally hunted out in the period that followed in the early 1800s, when Dutch and English settlers built their homesteads here. More than 180 years after Heatherton Towers, one of South Africa’s first ostrich farms, started exporting plumes to Europe, the building is now Kwandwe’s reception house. The historic farmhouse known as Uplands Homestead has been converted into a gorgeous safari venue.</p> <p>All too often the reclamation of wild areas throughout Africa has turned local communities into refugees, frequently relegated to dismal camps in the buffer zones. Most of Kwandwe’s staff are ex-farm workers, however, and their <a href="/responsible-travel/make-a-difference/participation/ethical-safari-camp-wilderness-experience">lives have improved</a> phenomenally since the decision was made, in 2001, to buy up nine white-owned farms and return the surrounding habitat to its wild state.</p> <p>Kwandwe (“Place of the Blue Crane” in Xhosa) was named after the highly endangered and incredibly beautiful blue crane which had almost disappeared, but is now returning in healthy numbers. The fences were torn down and, in less than 20 years, Kwandwe has been transformed into a pristine wilderness where herds of elephants and both black and white rhinoceros roam.</p> <p>There are three healthy prides of lions and a thriving leopard population in the reserve. Most spectacularly, cheetah were reintroduced and are now here in numbers that would have been inconceivable in the previous century, since the last two were shot in this area in 1888.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/south-africa/kwandwe-bush-walk-mark-eveleigh.jpg" /><figcaption>Tracking rhino on foot. Image credit: Mark Eveleigh</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="carbon-footprint">Taking the carbon out of your footprint</h2> <p>Brendan, Dennis, and I had driven many hours together over the last few days, but getting to know Kwandwe involves more than simple game-driving. We went fishing from an aluminium boat on Kwandwe dam, but our voyage was so eventful – with sightings of new-born hippo, two black rhino, countless antelope, and an entire family of frolicking otters – that we never even had time to cast our lines. Now, we were exploring on foot. Walking safaris offer a much deeper knowledge of the bush than the average safari. Kwandwe even offers children “poo safaris” in areas that are safely free from <a href="/travel-safety/southern-africa/south-africa/wild-weather-wild-animals-south-africa">dangerous animals</a>.</p> <p>“Stay close, and try to keep noise to a minimum,” Brendan whispered as he slung his rifle over his shoulder. We set off walking in single file, with Dennis acting as rear guard. Having seen footprints almost constantly on every track we’d driven, I’d probably never been in an area where the possibility of spotting rhino was so good.</p> <p>The bush around us was appropriately known as renosterveld (literally ‘rhino bush’) and was richly scented with olives, rosemary, curry bush, and a succulent known locally as spekboom (<em>Portulacaria afra</em>). Apart from being highly palatable to many herbivores, spekboom is one of the top five carbon-storing plants on our planet. It’s been estimated that 100 hectares of spekboom (Kwandwe is 22,000 hectares in total) is equivalent to taking 260 cars off the road for a year.</p> <p>The reserve <a href="/explore/southern-africa/south-africa/eco-successes-in-the-african-bush">is a success story</a> on a social level, too. Since 2002, Kwandwe’s social development arm has provided benefits that include a pre-school, primary school, and adult education, a community center, and a health program (not only for staff but also serving 10 nearby villages).</p> <p>“My children can hope for a far better future than my father ever expected,” Dennis told me when the leopard finally moved on and let us approach our sundowners. “We have a community to be proud of here. When I grew up, the wildlife was just a threat to the farms, but now even the leopards seem to be our friends!”</p> <h2 id="trip-notes">Trip notes</h2> <h3>Getting there</h3> <p>Lying approximately 100m (160km) by car from Port Elizabeth, at the end of the famous Garden Route, Kwandwe makes the perfect finale to a road trip from Cape Town. If you prefer to fly, Kwandwe has its own airstrip, but most visitors fly from Cape Town or Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth.</p> <h3>Costs</h3> <p>Kwandwe has of the highest land-to-guest ratios in South Africa, which is key to its conservation initiatives. But this experience doesn’t come cheap: suites range from US $619 per person per night at Ecca Lodge or Great Fish River Lodge to US $2,645 upwards for up to 5 guests staying in private safari villas. All accommodation includes full board with drinks, two game drives per day, nature walks, and big game tracking accompanied by an armed ranger and guide.</p> <h3>When to go</h3> <p>The region is malaria free year-round. Summer (October to March) is hot and wet, with temperatures soaring above 97<span>°F (</span>36°C). Winter (May to August) sees chilly mornings and evenings but produces clear, warm days with very little rain.</p>Mark Eveleigh 1 Mark Eveleigh A family of cheetah relaxing in Kwandwe Private Game Reserve.

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/travel-safety/worldwide/10-travel-tips-new-countryWhether you’re a first-time gap-year backpacker or an experienced globe-trotter, here are 10 safety tips for your first 24hrs in a new destination.2020-02-01T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/travel-safety/worldwide/10-travel-tips-new-countryhttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>The world is populated with wonderfully hospitable, friendly and delightful people. Unfortunately, our first experience of any new destination is normally the frantic arrivals terminal of an international airport.</p> <p>Every country has its share of con-artists and hustlers, and they all know that airports are the best hunting grounds for naïve new arrivals.</p> <p>Whether you’re a first-time gap-year backpacker or an experienced globe-trotter, here are 10 hard-won tips to help you get through the first few hours in your new destination.</p> <h2>1. Red-eye special</h2> <p>When you’re booking flights, plan to arrive early in the day. A morning arrival leaves you with ample time to negotiate the transfer to your hotel or onward travel.</p> <p>Arriving late at night adds to the pressure and leaves you feeling disoriented in a city you can’t see. Also, some airports have less security on patrol at night and taxis or buses may be erratic.</p> <p>Likewise, book the departure flight for the afternoon, so there’s no rush to get to the airport.</p> <h2>2. Buy yourself some time</h2> <p>If budget allows, consider upgrading to a hotel that offers an airport shuttle. There’s nothing more reassuring than having somebody meet you at arrivals with a name card and a big smile. An upgraded hotel also gives that feeling of security, buying you an extra 24 hours in which to find your feet and learn the ropes in a new city.</p> <h2>3. Lose the tags</h2> <p>Those baggage tags looped into the straps of your backpack speak loud-and-clear to every hustler in the city: ‘JOJ!’ they scream (Just off the Jet), or ‘FOB!’ (fresh off the boat). You might as well scrawl NAÏVE across your forehead in permanent marker.</p> <p>Some airports have staff at the exit cross-referring passengers with their baggage but, once you’re beyond the checkpoints, lose the evidence as fast as possible and try to look like you’ve been around for ages.</p> <h2>4. Learn the basics</h2> <p>Indecisiveness is what hustlers are looking for and a bemused expression and the brand-new guidebook gripped in white-knuckled fingers is a dead giveaway. Try to get enough prior information so that you can look confident and keep moving.</p> <p>No two airports have the same transportation system so try to tag on behind travelers who look local and follow their cue…or queue.</p> <h2>5. The ‘domestic’ bolthole</h2> <p>Most major international airports also have a domestic terminal attached. Freed from the betraying evidence of those international baggage tags, you’re likely to find that the domestic terminal is infinitely less stressful…and is a less likely honeypot for hustlers.</p> <p>If you’ve arrived early this terminal might be the best area in which to wait: cafes prices are often more representative of local norms and even taxis could cost less here.</p> <h2>6. No hurries, no worries</h2> <p>Take your time and don’t get rushed into anything. The best way to spend the first hour in a new country is often simply to find a quiet café table from which to check the lay of the land. Just sit and people-watch while you make a plan. There’s the added benefit that anyone who might be ‘people-watching’ you will get the impression that you’re relaxed and in control of the situation.</p> <h2>7. Know your notes</h2> <p>It helps to arrive with some cash in the local currency so that you don’t have to stop at an airport ATM. (Juggling bags while fiddling with a wallet is a recipe for disaster).</p> <p>Be aware of the exchange rate and have an idea of what your airport transport is likely to cost. Once you have local cash familiarise yourself with the notes: you don’t want to pay 10-times the going rate for a taxi simply because you thought you were handing over purple 10,000 rupiah notes when you were actually showering the driver with pretty pink 100,000s.</p> <h2>8. Tongue-tied</h2> <p>In many countries where haggling is the norm the mere ability to be able to ask the price in a local language (and to understand the reply) can snag you a 30% discount on the starting price.</p> <p>A few words in the local language gives the impression that you know your way around but, most importantly, it shows the level of respect you have for your hosts.</p> <h2>9. Stack the cards in your favor</h2> <p>Carry at least two credit cards, stashed in separate bags. Don’t get stranded simply because your only card was stolen, lost or eaten by a machine. One of the accounts should be loaded only with minimal funds and topped up as needed so that you have a card to use anywhere you think security might be compromised. Have a backup plan in place so that family/friends can wire funds in a worst-case scenario.</p> <h2>10. Taxi!</h2> <p>At airports take the official taxis, rather than the random ‘guys with cars’ who haunt arrival areas. An exception to this rule could be if Grab or Uber are available. These apps have brought a sort of democracy back to the world of taxis with rates that are the same whether you’re a local, an expat or a greenhorn tourist.</p> <p>Since you simply input the destination on your phone there’s no need to embark on complex explanations into where you need to go. You can link your card to make the transactions cashless and there’s even an ‘emergency’ button.</p>Photo by Haley Black from Pexels 0 Pexels Woman Taking Pictures of Ruins in Israel

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/north-africa/morocco/five-things-to-do-in-marrakechExciting, colorful, and bustling, Marrakech can be a place of sensory overload. Mark Eveleigh shares his suggestions for getting the most out of one of his favorite cities.2021-12-03T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/north-africa/morocco/five-things-to-do-in-marrakechhttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>“Just go out of the front door and head for the main alleyway,” Mohammad Aznaque explained to me, “then follow it until you see the arch where the donkey carts are. Next, take the middle passageway through the souks until you reach the main road leading to the plaza…”</p> <p>He made it sound so simple but, as expected, within 15 minutes I was hopelessly lost. It didn’t matter, though. I’d visited Marrakech many times and was aware that being adrift in this labyrinth was often part of the excitement.</p> <p>There’s a common refrain in this most magical of cities that “if you didn’t get lost in the souks then you weren’t really <em>in</em> the souks.”</p> <p>Mohammed, who works at the lovely Anayela Riad on the northern edge of <a href="/travel-safety/north-africa/morocco/safety-in-moroccos-souks-and-medina">the medina</a>, has years of experience in extricating tourists who’ve become hopelessly entangled – like flies in a spiderweb – in the maze.</p> <p>Since I first visited 25 years ago, Marrakech has been one of my all-time favorite cities and my favorite thing to do here is simply wonder like Alibaba through the Thousand and One Nights and see what I stumble across. It can be a place of sensory overload, so it's necessary to have a series of boltholes you can head for, to recoup energy for another foray into the happy anthill of activity.</p> <p>Here are my five top suggestions for soaking up the atmosphere.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#tea">Mint tea overlooking the Djemaa el Fna</a></li> <li><a href="#souk">Authenticity near the Spice Souk</a></li> <li><a href="#food">Take a Moroccan food tour</a></li> <li><a href="#green"> La Bahia Palace and Le Jardin Secret</a></li> <li><a href="#hammam">Soak in a hammam</a></li> <li><a href="#trip-notes">Trip notes</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="tea">Mint tea overlooking the Djemaa el Fna</h2> <p>Fortunately, for a city that could otherwise potentially be exhausting, Marrakech is home to the world’s most invigorating drink. A glass of syrupy-sweet mint tea on the rooftop (the so-called Grand Balcon) of Café Glacier is my first stop at the beginning of every visit to Marrakech. From here you can gaze right over the <a href="/stories/love/confessions-of-a-romantic-traveler">Djemaa el Fna</a> – the great plaza that is the setting for the world’s greatest never-ending “festival”. Ideally, I try to be here around 4pm when a convoy of 50 or more food stalls roll out, like a wild west wagon-train. When the sunset prayer-call echoes out from the ancient Koutoubia minaret the smoke from scores of barbecues begins to waft like dancing djinns across the shimmering lights of the stalls and the Djemaa becomes more magical by the minute.</p> <h2 id="souk">Authenticity near the Spice Souk</h2> <p>The little plaza of the Spice Souks is universally known to tourists so, for something infinitely more authentic, I love to head into Souk Laghzel. This tiny plaza (down a short alley off the south-western corner of the Spice Souk) has a disturbing history: it used to be the slavery souk. Today, it’s the workplace of dozens of women who sell second-hand clothes, along with a couple of hidden antique/bric-a-brac stalls. As you enter the plaza you find Bezzari Zakaria, a tiny bazaar selling a mindboggling array of traditional remedies and strange charms. On the opposite corner is a little eatery with no name. It is run by Fatima (known as “the mother of the souks”) and is where the stallholders get their afternoon meal. As such, it is perhaps the best value, heartiest food in Marrakech.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/morocco/marrakech/souk.jpg" alt="A donkey stands outside a shop selling luggage in the Marrakech souk." /> <figcaption>Within the maze of the medina. Photo credit: Mark Eveleigh</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="food">Take a Moroccan food tour</h2> <p>Ace-guide Ali (who can be booked through <a href="https://marrakechfoodtours.com/">marrakechfoodtours.com</a>) is a wealth of information not only on his city’s culinary heritage but also on all aspects of history and culture. An evening with Ali is a gastronomic adventure, taking in some secret spots that you would never stumble across as a tourist. Whether you’re an adventurer willing to challenge yourself with steamed “goat-face”, sheep’s brain, and snails or a street-food junkie tempted by <em>sfnj</em> (deep-fried donuts) or <em>msmen</em> (savoury Moroccan pancakes), Ali’s tours provide stories that you could dine out on for weeks to come.</p> <h2 id="green">Escape into La Bahia Palace and Le Jardin Secret</h2> <p>Majorelle Gardens – best known for its connection with Yves Saint Laurent – is one of Marrakech’s premier icons but, for something more unexpected (and within the walls of the old city) I prefer La Bahia Palace and Le Jardin Secret. The aptly named “Secret Garden”, which had been falling into ruin for almost a century, was restored in 2016 to create a real oasis of calm in the frenetic bustle of the souks. La Bahia Palace is a wonderfully cool expanse of marble courtyards and reception rooms at the southern end of the Mellah (the old Jewish quarter). Both these gardens deserve an hour or two, allowing time simply to sit under the palms listening to the birds. <em>(Note: Bahia Palace was damaged in the Sept 2023 earthquake and was closed immediately after. Check to see if it has reopened before you visit.)</em></p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/morocco/marrakech/la-bahia-palace.jpg" alt="A fountain within the elegant, tiled courtyard of La Bahia Palace, Marrakech, Morocco." /> <figcaption>La Bahia Palace. Image credit: Mark Eveleigh</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="hammam">Soak in a hammam</h2> <p>The <em><a href="/stories/connection/being-naked-in-marrakech">hammam</a></em> (steam bath) is a ritual not to be missed. But, as with any ritual, there are codes of conduct that can sometimes make it daunting – and no two hammam are the same. The lovely Riad Star, in the heart of the Medina, has a private hammam on the roof (open also to non-guests) where an attendant will scrub and soap you. Of the public hammams Mouassine, dating back to around 1571, is one of the most historic. There are separate male and female sections and at 1.5 euros it is one of the best-value experiences you’ll ever have. An hour spent comfortably simmering on the tiled floor is closer to transcendental meditation than to a mere bathing session.</p> <h2 id="trip-notes">Trip notes</h2> <h3>Getting around</h3> <p>If you choose to stay in the medina all sights are likely to be within easy strolling distance. Tuk-tuks are ideal if you want to get back to your hotel after dark since the drivers (all people with special needs) can steer down the tightest alleyways after the stalls have closed. For longer journeys a “petit taxi” (rather than the bigger inter-city Mercedes) works on a meter system.</p> <h3>Where to stay</h3> <p>There are hotels and guesthouses to suit all budgets in Marrakech but a riad (from about 60 euros upwards) makes for one of the world’s most evocatively romantic accommodation options. Typically windowless, historical houses with all the rooms looking inwards to a central courtyard, the best riad also have wonderful roof terraces. You can’t go wrong with <a href="https://www.anayela.com/">Riad Anayela</a> or any of those featured on <a href="https://www.marrakech-riad.co.uk/">Marrakech Riad</a>.</p>Mark Eveleigh 0 Mark Eveleigh The bustling Djemaa el Fna plaza in Marrakech at sunset.

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/travel-safety/southeast-asia/indonesia/crime-in-indonesia-how-you-can-avoid-it-travel-safelyCrime can be a major problem throughout Indonesia, though it's most serious in large cities such as Kuta and Jakarta. Check out how you can try to avoid trouble and stay safe.2023-03-01T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/travel-safety/southeast-asia/indonesia/crime-in-indonesia-how-you-can-avoid-it-travel-safelyhttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>Among a population of 277 million people, there are sure to be a few bad eggs. But <a href="/travel-safety/southeast-asia/indonesia">Indonesia</a> is a surprisingly safe place to visit.</p> <p>I traveled well over 9,300mi (15,000 km), through all parts of the country, researching my latest book and came across nothing worse than the odd bout of over-charging by a hired driver or <em>becak</em> (cycle-trishaw) rider.</p> <p>Criminal elements tend to gravitate towards urban areas (Kuta, Jakarta, Yogyakarta. Makassar…) where pickings are richer. You might expect that risks increase as you journey into remoter areas but most traditional communities retain an ingrained sense of hospitality towards visitors and village law enforcement tends to be more watchful and efficient than urban police could ever be.</p> <p>In a country where around 10% of the population lives below the poverty line, it would be foolish to make yourself an easy target. There are inherent risks and complications to traveling through this archipelago of around 13,000 islands, however. Here are some things to watch out for.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#petty-crime-in-indonesia">Petty crime in Indonesia</a></li> <li><a href="#violent-crime-in-indonesia">Violent crime in Indonesia</a></li> <li><a href="#transportation-crime-in-indonesia">Transportation crime in Indonesia</a></li> <li><a href="#money-and-credit-card-scams-in-indonesia">Money and credit card scams in Indonesia</a></li> <li><a href="#organized-crime-in-indonesia">Organized crime in Indonesia</a></li> <li><a href="#police-corruption-in-indonesia">Police corruption in Indonesia</a></li> <li><a href="#cohabitation-in-indonesia">Cohabitation as a crime in Indonesia</a></li> <li><a href="#drug-trafficking-in-bali">Drug trafficking in Bali</a></li> <li><a href="#terrorist-threats-in-bali">Terrorist threats in Bali</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="petty-crime-in-indonesia">Petty crime in Indonesia</h2> <p>Wherever tourists gather there are likely to be pickpockets and – while bag snatches are rare – it is wise to be on the alert. It pays to keep your wits about you when unexpectedly approached by a stranger who is obviously intent on engaging you in conversation. Don’t carry more cash than you can afford to lose and remain alert for motorbike-mounted snatchers when using your phone on busy streets. Don’t keep cash or wallets in loose pockets and carry daypacks slung in front of you rather than behind in crowded places.</p> <p>There have been reported incidents of pickpockets and thieves spiking the drinks of tourists in Kuta (Bali). It is unwise to accept drinks from strangers anywhere in the world and you should keep an eye on your glass.</p> <p>While bootlegging branded fashion items is something that most visitors take for granted as a fact of life on Bali, bear in mind that expensive bottles of spirits are likewise not always what they appear to be. There is an inherent risk of methanol poisoning in drinking cheap cocktails with spirits (ie arak) of dubious origin.</p> <h2 id="violent-crime-in-indonesia">Violent crime in Indonesia</h2> <p>Violent crime is so rare in <a href="/explore/southeast-asia/indonesia">Indonesia</a> that it could almost go unmentioned. A rare exception to the almost ubiquitous peace of rural <a href="/explore/southeast-asia/indonesia/everything-you-need-to-know-before-you-go-to-indonesia">Indonesia</a> lies in Lombok where armed robbery and even machete attacks have been reported.</p> <p>There have been cases of groups of armed motorbike ‘bandits’ holding tourists up on remote roads. Worse still sometimes ropes have been tied across country lanes and tourists have been robbed <em>after</em> being knocked off their bikes. Remain vigilant, don’t travel during darkness and if possible ride in a convoy when in areas where such things are prevalent.</p> <h2 id="transportation-crime-in-indonesia">Transportation crime in Indonesia</h2> <p>Bag snatches are rare but it is sensible to keep car windows up in dense traffic, to lock valuables under the seat when traveling by scooter and to keep possessions close by on trains or buses.</p> <p>In the past, Indonesian taxi drivers have been notorious (like their counterparts in London, Paris and New York) for over-charging new arrivals. More recently Uber-style transportation apps such as <a href="https://www.grab.com/id/en/">Grab</a> and <a href="https://www.gojek.com/en-id/?">Gojek</a> (and relatively new arrivals Air Asia and Maxim) have revolutionized the way people – foreigners <em>and</em> islanders alike – get around. <br /><br />With these apps, you pay the same rate as a local and have the added security of traveling with a driver who has been verified. It is always useful (and polite) to speak a few phrases of the local language but these apps also negate the need for convoluted route explanations and irritating haggling bouts.</p> <h2 id="money-and-credit-card-scams-in-indonesia">Money and credit card scams in Indonesia</h2> <p>You are almost certain to be converted into an instant millionaire the first time you hit an Indonesian ATM so ensure that you’re familiar with all the zeros on the banknotes. You can hardly claim that a crime has been committed if you accidentally fork out a million rupiah (AU$96) for an airport taxi that should have cost you 100,000.</p> <p>With ATMs widely available there is little reason these days to run the risk of changing your money at a currency exchange. Beware of suspicious cameras or attachments on ATMs and be aware of any bystanders. Monitor your account closely and keep your bank’s emergency contact number handy so that you can cancel cards as soon as you notice a suspicious transaction. <br /><br />It is wise to have a separate card – uploaded only with minimal funds – that you can use for ATM withdrawals and card purchases while abroad. <a href="https://wise.com/invite/ath/marke460">Wise</a> (previously Transferwise) is an ideal traveling card since it works well in most countries around the world and you are only charged at local rates.</p> <h2 id="organized-crime-in-indonesia">Organized crime in Indonesia</h2> <p>Organized mafia-style crime is not something that the average visitor is likely to run foul of. As in other countries, these organizations tend to be involved in gambling, drugs and prostitution. The first two practices are strictly illegal in Indonesia with the death penalty still enforced for drugs. There are no specific laws forbidding sex work, but local and regional bylaws frequently list it among vaguely defined ‘crimes against decency/morality’.</p> <p>Even apart from arrest, extortion and bribery are an inherent risk for anyone who believes that prostitution, drugs and gambling form a part of the ideal tropical holiday. In the past, some police officers have worked hand-in-hand with organized criminal syndicates to relieve foreigners of their money in this way. </p> <h2 id="police-corruption-in-indonesia">Police corruption in Indonesia</h2> <p>While the Indonesian <a href="/travel-safety/worldwide/corrupt-police">police force</a> has traditionally had a terrible reputation for corruption it is fair to say that things have changed markedly in recent years. A decade ago, police roadblocks – basically shakedowns (invariably within a short walk of ATM machines) – were common occurrences on highways all over the island. <br /><br />President Joko Widodo’s anti-corruption drives – even to the extent of applying the death penalty for corruptors – have become popular with Indonesians from all walks of life (apart from the obvious exceptions). While corruption still exists, it is far less common than it once was.</p> <p>You will see anti-corruption signs in police stations and government buildings and the handing over of ‘on-the-spot’ fines for traffic violations – such as not wearing a crash helmet. It’s a crime to ride a motorbike without a helmet yet thousands of tourists do this in Bali every day. Bear in mind that this could bring you into contact with the police…or, worse, into contact with the road.</p> <h2 id="cohabitation-in-indonesia"><strong>Cohabitation as a crime in Indonesia</strong></h2> <p>In December 2022, the Indonesian Government caused an international stir when it announced that unmarried couples could face six months in prison or a fine. The backlash – involving canceled Bali holidays for unmarried international couples – helped to put things in a more balanced perspective. <br /><br />It is not a law that is likely to affect foreign visitors, or even in most cases Indonesian citizens. As it stands, proceedings can only be instigated if the cohabitation is reported by parents, offspring or a spouse.</p> <h2 id="drug-trafficking-in-bali">Drug trafficking in Bali</h2> <p>Don’t do it. Under the present anti-corruption drive apprehension by the police even for possession is far more likely to lead to arrest than to extortion or a hefty bribe. If you are fortunate, the arrest might lead to a lengthy prison sentence. If you are less fortunate, it could even lead to the death penalty. It’s worth repeating – don’t do it.</p> <h2 id="terrorist-threats-in-bali">Terrorist threats in Bali</h2> <p>It is important to remember that Indonesians of all faiths are hospitable, friendly and welcoming people and that fanatics and militants are in the tiny minority. Terrorist organizations have been active in the past with horrifying effect, however, and Islamic State, ash-Sham (aka Jemaah Anshorut Daulah) and Jemaah Islamiyah have cadres in what is famously known as the world’s biggest Muslim country.</p> <p>The United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime has stated that ‘Indonesia has made notable progress in strengthening the legal regime against terrorism, in conformity with the international treaties against terrorism.’</p> <p>The vast majority of holidays to Indonesia pass without the merest unpleasant experience but if you are worried about such eventualities it is worth considering that terrorists are more likely to target busy westernized areas. In general, the threat from crime diminishes in Indonesia with each kilometer you stray from the beaten path.</p>iStock/Yulia-B 0458306203 iStock A man riding his motorbike along the streets of Kuta

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/southeast-asia/malaysia/4-things-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-to-malaysiaFind out what Malaysia is like, the best places to go, how to experience the culture, and why it's so worth visiting.2023-10-24T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/southeast-asia/malaysia/4-things-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-to-malaysiahttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>Since I first visited Malaysia in the 1990s (during a three-month jungle expedition, researching my first book, <em>Fever Trees of Borneo</em>), I’ve returned to the country on assignments many times. Something about the spectacular nature and the hospitable spirit of Malaysian people (from all walks of life) has surprised me each time I returned.</p> <p>Here are four things about Malaysia that I wish I’d known 30 years ago.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#geography">Malaysia’s geography and diversity</a></li> <li><a href="#culture">The best ways to experience Malaysian culture</a></li> <li><a href="#dishes">Best Malaysian dishes and where to try them</a></li> <li><a href="#getting-around">Getting around Malaysia</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="geography">Malaysia’s geography and diversity</h2> <p>Unless you’re crossing one of Peninsular Malaysia’s two land borders (either from the north out of Thailand or from Singapore, the southern neighbor), Kuala Lumpur is likely to be your first introduction to Malaysian diversity. The gleaming steel and glass skyscrapers of the Malaysian capital have come a long way since the city was first humbly named Kuala Lumpur – meaning ‘muddy estuary’. Both geographically and ‘atmospherically’ KL, as it’s commonly known, is about halfway between (edgy) Bangkok and (polished) Singapore. It’s the ideal introduction to Southeast Asia.</p> <p>Malaysia is famed for spectacular beaches that could rival any on the planet and there are more than 800 islands here. While beach bums head for the Perhentian Islands, luxury-seeking high-fliers tend to gravitate towards Langkawi (which is two-thirds the size of Singapore). Tioman Island offers some exciting <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/hiking-travel-insurance">hiking</a> while Sipadan Island (off the coast of Sabah in Northern Borneo) boasts some of the <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/scuba-diving-travel-insurance">world’s best divin</a>g. The lovely, historical island of Penang is one of the most fascinating places in Southeast Asia, with enough cultural and natural allure to keep you exploring for weeks.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/malaysia/4-things/temple-penang.jpg" alt="Kek Lok Si Temple in Penang, Malaysia." /> <figcaption>Kek Lok Si Temple in Penang, Malaysia. Image credit: Getty Images / Matteo Colombo</figcaption></figure> <p>With an estimated 2,905mi (4,675km) of tropical coastline, you might be forgiven for thinking that Malaysia’s attractions are all at sea level but the inland natural wildernesses, both on Peninsular Malaysia and the East Malaysian states of Sarawak and Sabah, offer a unique chance to combine a beach holiday with a once-in-a-lifetime jungle adventure. The superlatives speak for themselves: the pristine rainforest of Taman Negara National Park, for example, is said to be the oldest primary forest in the world at more than 130 million years old and the rocks of the Cambrian Machinchang Formation (part of Langkawi’s UNESCO Global Geopark) are estimated at somewhere around 500 million years old.</p> <p>Sabah’s Mount Kinabalu (rising to 13,435ft/4,095m) is Southeast Asia’s highest mountain and then there’s the irresistible jungle-covered vastness of Sarawak state, itself almost equal in area to ‘mainland’ Malaysia.</p> <h2 id="culture">The best ways to experience Malaysian culture</h2> <p>While this is predominantly a Muslim country, just a little exploration in the capital will give you an insight into Malaysia’s amazing cultural diversity. Chinatown (centered on Petaling Street) and Little India (around Brickfields) are the most obvious introductions to the lifestyle, traditions, culture, and cuisine of Malaysia’s two largest ethnic groups. All over the country you’ll meet indigenous people from some of the country’s countless tribes. Sabah alone is said to have almost 40 tribes and <a href="/stories/fear/trekking-the-headhunters-trail-in-borneo">Sarawak</a> is the land of the legendary Iban (once known as the headhunting ‘Sea Dayak’), the Bidayuh (‘Land Dayaks’) and countless lesser tribes known collectively as the Orang Ulu (‘Upriver People’).</p> <p>For an adventurous traveler, there are few places that offer the opportunities that Borneo does. The historical city of Kuching (in Sarawak) is the ideal hop-off point for adventurers who want to visit the <a href="/stories/transformation/orangutan-encounters-in-malaysian-borneo">land of the orangutans</a>. While many parts of Kalimantan (the Indonesian part of Borneo island) remain almost unknown to outsiders, Sarawak and Sabah offer easier access to remote longhouse and riverside communities.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/malaysia/4-things/orangutans-borneo.jpg" alt="An orangutan with her baby in Malaysian Borneo." /> <figcaption>Orangutans in Borneo. Image credit: Getty Images / Khaichuin Sim</figcaption></figure> <p>But you needn’t head for Borneo for indigenous culture since, even within relatively easy access of Kuala Lumpur, you can find unexpected traditions. Melaka, for example, (two hours south of the capital) is home to a unique community of Kristang people (of predominantly Portuguese descent) and just over an hour to the north, in Perak State, you find the Semang. One of almost a hundred groups that are known collectively as Orang Asli (‘Original People’), the Semang settled in this area more than 10,000 years ago.</p> <h2 id="dishes">Best Malaysian dishes to seek out and where to try them</h2> <p>Skip the hotel breakfast buffet because local markets can be the best (and liveliest) places to breakfast. <em>Roti canai</em> (pronounced rotty chan-eye), a sort of flat bread that is dipped in curry sauce, might seem like an unlikely breakfast but try it just once and you will probably want to start every day that way! It’s best paired with <em>teh tarik</em> (literally ‘pulled tea’) which is typically milky and sweet and poured – or ‘pulled’ – from a height for maximum frothiness.</p> <p>Malaysia might be second only to <a href="/explore/southeast-asia/singapore/asias-top-food-destination">Singapore</a> as a foodie’s paradise and, like the southern neighbor, its appeal comes from the mix of Malay, Chinese, and Indian ingredients. ‘Hawker centres’ (simple food courts) are ideal for lunch since they offer unrivalled variety. They’re often in an open-air market area or might simply be a cooperative of several food stalls operating on the ground floor of old Chinese-style shophouses. Here you’ll find a variety of stalls selling rice, noodle, meat (pork, chicken, beef, duck) and other stalls specializing in drinks and desserts. Just point at anything that appeals and don’t hesitate to be adventurous.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/malaysia/4-things/night-market-kuala-lumpur.jpg" alt="A busy night market in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia." /> <figcaption>A night market in Kuala Lumpur. Image credit: Getty Images / Twenty47studio</figcaption></figure> <p>Most Malaysians tend to eat their evening meal relatively early (shortly after sundown) and you’ll find formal dining in restaurants of every type in the cities. Bear in mind that Malay (i.e. Islamic) eateries will be pork-free. Also, most will not serve alcohol (although most Indian and Chinese establishments do).</p> <p>Malaysian Borneo is a culinary adventure all its own. In the main towns you’ll find delicacies such as the spicy, coconut-scented prawn soup known as <em>laksa</em> but once you get to the jungle camps and riverside communities of the interior you might find your taste buds challenged by such staples as <em>tuak</em> (palm wine), roasted sago worms and fermented durian paste (surprisingly delicious once you acquire the taste).</p> <h2 id="getting-around">Getting around Malaysia</h2> <p>Relatively strict traffic laws (compared at least with neighboring Thailand) surround the rental of motorbikes and road safety in general. Don’t ride without a license and always wear a helmet (good advice anywhere!) if you plan on traveling independently on Malaysian highways*.</p> <p>Fortunately, the public transport system is convenient and reliable with comfortable long-distance (sleeper) buses linking all the main hubs with vehicles that are often surprisingly spacious and comfortable. There are 1,150mi (1,851km) of railway line in Malaysia and trains to match every budget – from the basic economy-class commuter trains to the hyper-luxurious Eastern & Oriental Express – run the length of the peninsula.</p> <p>The MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) and LRT (Light Rail Transit) systems make for easy travel around the Kuala Lumpur metropolitan area. Sabah State Railway also features a lovely local train route through the Crocker Range and the North Borneo Railway (also in Sabah) even has resurrected steam engines that haul day-trippers along a network that dates back well over 100 years.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/malaysia/4-things/light-rail-kuala-lumpur.jpg" alt="A light-rail train on an elevated track outside Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia." /> <figcaption>The LRT system in Kuala Lumpur. Image credit: Getty Images / toonman</figcaption></figure> <p>Langawi Island, Tioman, and the Perhentians are all accessible from the mainland by ferry, but you’ll need to fly between Kuala Lumpur and Kuching (Sarawak) or Kota Kinabalu (Sabah). In Sabah and, even more so, in Sarawak you’ll find yourself traveling by river – often in motorized passenger longboats that link the upriver communities. If you’re looking for a combination of unique wildlife and Borneo’s traditional Dayak culture, consider a river jaunt into Sabah’s Kinabatangan River region or Danum Valley Conservation Area or into Sarawak’s unspoiled Batang Ai National Park.</p> <p>Traveling in Borneo can be time-consuming, but it’s worth all the hassles (even the leeches) and could be the adventure of a lifetime.</p> <p><em>*If you choose to ride, consider <a href="/travel-insurance">travel insurance</a> and be sure to comply with its requirements, such as riding with a helmet and being appropriately licensed to ride in your home country at your destination.</em></p>Getty Images/Punnawitsuwuttananun 0

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/north-africa/morocco/6-things-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-to-moroccoPlanning a Morocco adventure? Mark Eveleigh shares his expert travel tips, from when to go and how to get around, to culture and etiquette, to the ideal Morocco itinerary. 2023-12-11T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/north-africa/morocco/6-things-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-to-moroccohttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>During the late 1990s I was a struggling travel writer based in Madrid. My business plan didn’t budget for long-haul trips, so the best I could do in the quest for adventurous new material was to board the overnight bus that would deliver me to Tangier in time for breakfast. It was like having Africa on my doorstep.</p> <p>I’ve returned on assignments to Morocco’s farthest reaches often since those days. It remains one of the most fascinating, exhilarating, and challenging countries I’ve ever traveled in.</p> <p>I trekked with Berber mule trains in the Atlas, rode in a Tuareg camel caravan across the Central Sahara and criss-crossed the country in taxis, buses, trains, and cars (once driving a 34-year-old VW Beetle in a convoy bound all the way to Gambia). Despite its relative accessibility Morocco remains one of the most exciting adventure destinations on the planet.</p> <p>Occasionally it can be stressful but more often travelers are charmed by a code of hospitality that is perhaps a national characteristic of Moroccans from all walks of life and all cultural backgrounds.</p> <p>Here are five things to bear in mind before traveling in Morocco.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#like">What is Morocco like?</a></li> <li><a href="#culture">Culture and etiquette</a></li> <li><a href="#places">Places to visit in Morocco</a></li> <li><a href="#when-to-visit">Best time to visit Morocco</a></li> <li><a href="#getting-around">Getting around Morocco</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="like">What is Morocco like?</h2> <p>Morocco defies generalizations. There is a world of difference between famously <a href="/explore/north-africa/morocco/why-tangier-is-an-underappreciated-destination">edgy and cosmopolitan Tangier</a> (with its ancient Mediterranean history and mysterious International Zone background) and the sleepy rural towns of the Rif Mountains, or the last nomadic communities of the southern desert. <a href="/explore/north-africa/morocco/five-things-to-do-in-marrakech">Marrakech ranks highly</a> on any list of the world’s most exciting and vibrant cities. The Djemaa el Fna (the city’s main plaza), the world’s greatest never-ending “festival”, is a spectacle that any traveler should experience at least once.</p> <p>Fes with its captivating souks and timeless tanneries has a thrill all its own. Then there are enchanting towns like Chefchaouen, with alleyways painted ice blue under the unforgiving African sun, and Essaouira, the windswept city perched on the Atlantic coast. But to travel in Morocco and miss out on the wilderness is to miss the very soul of the country. You can hike among the greenery of the Rif Mountains, join a camel train into the desert from Merzouga or walk with baggage-mules to Kasbah du Toubkal and then continue among the arid peaks of the Atlas.</p> <p>Morocco is a world unto itself.</p> <h2 id="culture">Culture and etiquette</h2> <p>While religious freedom has historically been a central part of Moroccan life, it’s important to remember that this country is predominantly Muslim (albeit of a fairly relaxed nature). Exercise discretion with public displays of affection and be aware of appropriate dress. Cover shoulders and legs especially when visiting palaces, kasbahs and (crucially) in the vicinity of mosques. Women should carry a scarf to cover the head at religious sites – and some (specifically blondes) find it an effective way to blend in with crowds.</p> <p>Morocco has its share of westernised beaches (around Agadir and Essaouira especially) where beach attire is the norm but once away from the beach-front it’s wise/polite to dress more modestly. In ancient medinas and traditional towns, you should enquire about the etiquette surrounding the <a href="/stories/connection/being-naked-in-marrakech">traditional <em>hammam</em> steam-baths</a> (potentially a highlight of your trip).</p> <p>Many Moroccans prefer not to have their photo taken. It goes without saying that you should <a href="/responsible-travel/make-a-difference/people/how-to-take-photos-responsibly">always ask if you want a portrait</a> and respect your subject’s decision. Professional photographers are aware that Morocco ranks among the most difficult places to work since, even in a wide-angle crowd scene, you might often have someone who will object.</p> <p>Shopping is irresistible part of any trip to Morocco and (aside from a few designer shops) you’ll be expected to haggle almost everywhere. The deal should never degenerate into an argument; maintain a friendly smile and a light-hearted demeanor and always pay up when your price has been accepted. <a href="/responsible-travel/make-a-difference/people/tipping-and-haggling-how-to-get-it-right-on-the-road">Don’t drive too hard a bargain</a> – a dollar either way might not matter to you but, contrary to popular belief, a struggling trader will sell at a loss if it’s the only way to feed his family that evening.</p> <p>Alcohol is only available in tourist areas and then usually only in inconspicuous bars. It can be worth asking at your hotel/riad though because, even within the medina of Marrakech, you can find some unexpectedly lovely cocktail bars.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/morocco/morocco-carpet-weaving-ian-neubauer.jpg" alt="A Moroccan carpet being woven on a loom." /> <figcaption>A Moroccan carpet in the making. Photo credit: Ian Neubauer</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="places">Places to visit in Morocco</h2> <p>Morocco has enough exciting locations to keep you traveling for months but an ideal trip that would give you a wonderful insight into the region’s cultural, historic and natural diversity might go something like this: fly into Casablanca and take a bus to Fes (a three-hour drive). After a couple of days exploring the historic city, hire a driver to take you through the Rif Mountains to Chefchaouen (four hours) and onward to Tangier (two hours). You can grab an extra day on the Mediterranean coast by taking the very comfortable night-train which will plant you in Marrakech in time for breakfast.</p> <p>From here you can take a taxi to Imlil (1.5 hours) to experience the High Atlas – the roof of Africa – before heading back to Marrakech for the long (10 hour) drive to Merzouga for your appointment with camels, Bedouin tents and the majestic expanses of the Sahara.</p> <p>Wherever possible (especially in Fes, Tangier and Marrakech) try to stay in <em>riads</em>. These renovated medina townhouses (often more like mansions) capture the soul of the old cities perfectly and, with their interior courtyards or gardens, are invariably a haven of peace from the sensory overload of the souks.</p> <p>It pays to be brave when it comes to food since Morocco is a gourmet’s paradise and you will often find some of the most unforgettable meals and snacks among the street-food vendors and local eateries.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/morocco/chefchaoen-blue-city-ian-neubauer.jpg" alt="Looking over Chefchaouen before sunset." /> <figcaption>Looking over Chefchaouen before sunset. Photo credit: Ian Neubauer</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="when-to-visit">Best time to visit Morocco</h2> <p>There’s no bad time to be in Morocco but autumn (September-November) and spring (March-May) are particularly idyllic. Summers can be sweltering in the desert but an ideal time for hiking in the Rif or Atlas Mountains. Winter, while sometimes so chilly that you’ll struggle to remind yourself that you’re in Africa, is so astoundingly beautiful that some rate it as the best time to visit. Marrakech sees minimal tourists during winter and the city never looks so beautiful as it does when the snowcapped mountains form a backdrop to the glowing amber kasbah walls.</p> <p>Ramadan (which varies each year but in 2024 lasts from March 10 to April 9) is celebrated in every part of the country. <a href="/explore/worldwide/traveling-muslim-countries-ramadan">It can be a vibrant time to travel</a> since every evening takes on the feeling of a festival or street party. However, it can be restrictive since Muslims abstain from food and drink (and even smoking) during daylight hours. In the big cities some tourist eateries function as normal but – while the restriction doesn’t officially extend to foreigners – it is considered polite to avoid eating or drinking on the street.</p> <h2 id="getting-around">Getting around Morocco</h2> <p>Comfortable local buses, connecting all the major towns and cities, can be a great way to make Moroccan friends. Within cities and towns simply flag down the ubiquitous <em>petit taxis</em> (little taxis) or increasingly common three-wheeled tuk tuks, which have the benefit of being able to thread their way through some of the tightest parts of the medina. Petit taxis are metered but the driver will sometimes ‘forget’ to turn the meter on or will tell you that it doesn’t work … in which case you need to haggle the rate in advance.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/morocco/alleyways-morocco-ian-neubauer.jpg" alt="Narrow alleyways in Morocco." /> <figcaption>Narrow alleyways in Morocco. Photo credit: Ian Neubauer</figcaption></figure> <p>Inter-city taxis are known as <em>grand taxis</em> (most commonly Mercedes Benz and sometimes of quite venerable vintage) and run long distances at competitive costs. Be aware that drivers of both <em>petit</em> and <em>grand taxis</em> expect to retain the right to be able to pick up extra passengers along the way (as long as there’s even a remote possibility of fitting them in). This can be a benefit for solo travelers who enjoy meeting local people but, unless you’re happy to pay for extra seats, you might have to wait around until enough passengers turn up.</p> <p>If you’re traveling with friends and prefer to retain autonomy so that you can stop for photo opportunities or mealtimes, it’s possible to haggle a price for the entire vehicle. Hotel/riad staff can advise you how to secure a grand taxi for your next destination.</p> <p>Excellent train services connect the main cities and provide a hassle-free and pleasant way to enjoy the landscape. A high-speed train now connects Casablanca with Tangier (211mi/340km away), in two hours and 10 minutes and from there you can get to Marrakech.</p> <p>Why rush, though, when you can catch the old <em>Marrakech Express</em> (immortalized in the 1969 song by Crosby, Stills, and Nash) from Tangier for a leisurely and romantic overnight rail-journey which will land you in legendary Marrakech at dawn?</p>Ian Neubauer 0

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/southeast-asia/thailand/off-the-beaten-path-thailandBreak away from the crowds in Thailand and discover secluded islands, secret temples, and pristine beaches you might have all to yourself.2023-10-18T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/southeast-asia/thailand/off-the-beaten-path-thailandhttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>Thailand has changed since my first trips to the country, when pan-handling elephants still trawled the backpacker ghetto around Khao San Road and tripped-out hippies in elephant-print pants still shuffled among the trishaw riders.</p> <p>The elephants and the hippies have long since disappeared, but the elephant-print pants are to be seen in greater profusion than ever and the last of the trishaw riders are still pedaling onwards (if you know where to find them).</p> <p><a href="/explore/southeast-asia/thailand/insiders-guide-to-bangkok">Bangkok is one of the world’s most popular city destinations</a> yet, even in the Thai capital, it only takes a little determination to find uncrowded and almost completely unknown locations. More than a third of Thailand is still covered in jungle and there are more than 1,988mi (3,200km) of coastline so – even within easy reach of the city, and among surprisingly accessible islands – there’s endless potential for getting off the beaten track.</p> <p><strong><a href="/explore/guides/thailand-itinerary">Traveling to Thailand soon? Download our free 14 day itinerary to discover the best of Bangkok, Chiang Mai, the Golden Triangle, and more.</a></strong></p> <ul> <li><a href="#hidden">Bangkok’s hidden spots</a></li> <li><a href="#river">The river islands of Bangkok</a></li> <li><a href="#triangle">Exploring the Golden Triangle</a></li> <li><a href="#paradise">“Paradise” overlooked: accessible places without the crowds</a></li> <li><a href="#beaches">Where to find pristine beaches and islands in Thailand</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="hidden">Bangkok’s hidden spots</h2> <p>I spent a lot of time based in Thailand (shortly before the pandemic) researching a book called simply <em>Secret Bangkok</em>. In what was famous at the time as the world’s number-one city destination, it had seemed a tall order to hunt down more than 100 secret sights, yet the city that’s known officially as <em>Krung Thep Maha Nakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthrayutthhaya Maha Dilokphop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udom Ratchaniwet Maha Sathan Amon Phiman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit</em> (usually referred to in Thai simply as Krung Thep) is home to many well-kept secrets.</p> <p>You might need to work hard – or hire a very good guide – if you want to meet the female spirits of Bangkok’s most haunted temple (Wat Prasat) or to visit the community that sells flammable gifts for ghosts (in Charoen Chai). Few people are familiar with the renegade Laotian musicians who still create famous flutes (at Baan Lao – the Laos House) or Bangkok’s “Little Lisbon” Portuguese quarter (locals know it as Kudichin). Just 5mi (8km) south of city center, there’s even a temple decorated with images of Mickey Mouse, Captain America, Che Guevara, and David Beckham!</p> <h2 id="river">The river islands of Bangkok</h2> <p>Greater Bangkok is divided by the great Chao Phraya River and criss-crossed by a spider’s web of canals. Visitors are often surprised to find that the nearest island lies just a tuk-tuk ride from the business district. Bang Krachao is a 6mi<sup>2</sup> (16km<sup>2</sup>) island (created by a man-made canal that cut off the neck of the oxbow) lying just south of the city. It’s the ideal place to escape the clamour of the city by spending a day <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/cycling-travel-insurance">cycling</a> and picnicking in rural backwaters.</p> <p>Koh Kret (to the north and technically in Nonthaburi district) is a smaller island that is famous for its fishing communities and ancient pottery traditions.</p> <p>Even within minutes of the city center there are canal communities that tourists rarely see. From Pra Athit Pier you can take an excitingly speedy longtail boat into the western canals that are still home to descendants of the Mon people.</p> <h2 id="triangle">Exploring the Golden Triangle</h2> <p>From Doi Inthanon Mountain – known as the “Roof of Thailand” and considered a part of the Himalayan Range – down to the relative lowlands of the Mekong River, Thailand’s northern region offers a world of adventure. Chiang Mai is the usual base from which to explore this region with its so-called hill-tribe communities, but smaller Pai (very kitsch in a bohemian sort of way) has become increasingly popular.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/thailand/off-beaten-path/doi-inthanon-mountain.jpg" alt="Two pagodas at the top of Doi Inthanon Mountain in northern Thailand." /> <figcaption>Pagodas near the summit of Doi Inthanon Mountain. Image credit: Getty Images / Prapass Pulsub</figcaption></figure> <p>Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary (inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List) offers an almost unique – although far from guaranteed – opportunity to spot wild Thai tigers, along with leopards and five other wild cat species. The spectacular wetland wilderness of Talay Bua Daeng (Red Lotus Sea), meanwhile, is a lure for birdwatchers.</p> <h2 id="paradise">“Paradise” overlooked: accessible places without the crowds</h2> <p>Perhaps in a single-minded attempt to get as far “off the beaten track” as possible, travelers and <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/backpacking">backpackers</a> have tended to overlook more accessible locations like Ko Samed (sometimes spelled Samet) and Koh Chang. The island of Ko Samed/Samet can be reached in less than three hours by taxi (and ferry) from Bangkok. (Be careful, however, because there’s a second Ko Samet/Samed about 215mi/350km to the southwest.) While there are some overdeveloped resorts and a party zone on the northern Ko Samed, you only need to head to more secluded bays to find little patches of veritable paradise of the sort that have long since disappeared on supposedly remoter islands.</p> <p>Ko Chang (a five-hour drive east of Bangkok and Thailand’s third largest island) lies just 2.5mi (4km) from the mainland. You would think that this accessibility would have condemned the island to overdevelopment but, as part of the 250mi<sup>2</sup> (650km<sup>2</sup>) Mu Ko Chang National Park, much of the forested interior of Ko Chang main island is still protected. What’s more, there are 51 other islands in the Ko Chang archipelago with many of them rarely seeing a visitor.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/thailand/off-beaten-path/mangrove-forest-koh-chang.jpg" alt="A womam walks along a boardwalk through a mangrove forest on Ko Chang, Thailand." /> <figcaption>A mangrove forest on Ko Chang. Image credit: Getty Images / AzByCx</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="beaches">Where to find pristine beaches and islands in Thailand</h2> <p>The best-selling novel <em>The Beach</em> might have rung the death toll for some of Thailand’s most beautiful spots but, with an official count of 1,430 islands, there’ll always be a pristine tropical haven if you take time looking for it.</p> <p>Shortly after the 2004 tsunami, I was sent on a CNN assignment to cover the plight of the Moken people (the last of the nomadic “Sea Gypsies”). It was the pre-Google Earth era, and I ended up hitching a ride on a fishing boat that went so far into the tangle of islands in the Andaman Sea that I was unsure if we’d accidentally encroached illegally into Burmese waters. On that trip, I landed on several beaches that had very likely never seen a foreign footprint. Mu Ko Surin Marine Park (about 37mi/60km offshore and a favorite <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/scuba-diving-travel-insurance">dive location</a>) is still home to Moken people and has some idyllic camping spots and low-key bungalows.</p> <p>Phuket Island is the tourist hub for the Andaman Sea area, but the Phi Phi islands are an accessible launching pad for wilder beach-bumming. Just beware that Phi Phi Le is no longer quite as it appeared when it served as the backdrop to <em>The Beach</em> movie. You’ll need to get there early to avoid the crowds, but you can expect to have nearby Ko Bida and Ko Maipai almost to yourself at any time.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/thailand/off-beaten-path/ang-thong.jpg" alt="Green islands and turquiose sea in Ang Thong National Marine Park, Thailand." /> <figcaption>Islands in Ang Thong National Marine Park. Image credit: Getty Images / Vera Shestak</figcaption></figure> <p>Koh Samui sees the bulk of tourism in the Gulf of Thailand while neighboring Koh Phangan, considerably less developed, becomes a tourist boomtown only around full moon each month. Even in this area there are hidden gems. Few people seem to even be aware, for example, that Ang Thong National Marine Park (lying between Ko Samui and the mainland) boasts no fewer than 42 rarely visited islands.</p>Getty Images / holgs 1586934360 Getty Images A secluded beach on Koh Samet island in Thailand.

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/southeast-asia/laos/5-things-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-to-laosVisitors to this surprising country will enjoy rich culture and beautiful scenery without the tourist crowds found elsewhere in Southeast Asia. Here’s why Laos is worth visiting and what it's like to travel here.2023-10-23T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/southeast-asia/laos/5-things-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-to-laoshttps://www.worldnomads.com<p>However you look at it, Laos is a land of surprises. You might find yourself feasting on French cuisine or tucking into a hearty bowl of ant-egg soup. You could spend a morning watching a procession of saffron-clad monks and enjoy afternoon tea on the deck of a Mekong riverboat. You might be picked up at your hotel by a battered tuk-tuk to be transferred to a space-age bullet-train.</p> <p>While this beautiful country full of enchanting people invariably lives up to expectations, it also defies generalizations. The following travel tips will help prepare you so that <a href="/travel-insurance/destinations/Cambodia-laos-vietnam-">Laos</a> will only surprise you in the most positive ways.</p> <ul> <li><a href="#travel">Cross-country travel in Laos</a></li> <li><a href="#getting-around">Getting around towns and cities</a></li> <li><a href="#boat">Laos river exploration</a></li> <li><a href="#money">Money in Laos</a></li> <li><a href="#food">Laotian food to try</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="travel">Cross-country travel in Laos</h2> <p>While this country is ideally suited to <a href="/responsible-travel/make-a-difference/participation/the-beauty-of-slow-travel">slow, leisurely travel</a>, the 160km/hr Boten–Vientiane railway is the best way to jump-start a relaxing holiday for many travelers. The line, running between Vientiane (the capital) and the northern town of Boten (on the border with Yunnan, China) officially opened in December 2021, making the historical city of Luang Prabang accessible in a mere two hours.</p> <p>The Chinese-built railway stations on this line – like immense plate-glass and concrete mausoleums – could put to shame a great many international airports (including Vientiane’s Wattay International Airport).</p> <p>Laos road networks are hardly space-age, however, and long-distance buses are typically slow. Buses between Vientiane and the other main tourist hotspot of Luang Prabang, for example, take around 10 hours – although faster minibuses can sometimes cut the journey-time to six hours.</p> <p>Many travelers choose to rent a motorbike and travel independently – especially on the picturesque 5-day ride known as the Tha Khaek Loop – but bear in mind that traffic police have cracked down hard on riders without licenses (regardless of what the people renting the bikes might tell you). Also, it is both illegal and foolhardy to ride without a crash-helmet*.</p> <h2 id="getting-around">Getting around towns and cities</h2> <p>Spanish-speaking travelers might be a little thrown by the name (which means “crazy” in Spanish) but LOCA is the national version of the Uber or Grab ride-hailing app and the only one that functions in Laos. It’s expensive for long distances but hard to beat for short distances during non-peak hours, since you don’t need to explain locations or haggle the price.</p> <p>Songthaews are shared taxis that most often take the form of a row of seats in the back of a covered pickup truck. They run along pre-arranged routes among villages and through more remote areas. Use a translation app to make certain that the driver understands your destination and ask him to advise you when to hop off. You usually have to arrange the rate in advance, but it’s normal to pay on arrival. Getting around by Songthaew can be a great way to make Laotian friends.</p> <p>Laotian tuk-tuks (grandly named <span>“</span>Skylabs<span>”</span>) tend to be larger than the speedy models that have become Thai icons. They are higher off the ground, perhaps to deal with the deeper Laotian potholes. You still hire the vehicle for private transport but since they accommodate eight passengers – sometimes more! – don’t be surprised if the driver stops along the route to pick up another passenger whose general direction coincides with your own.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/laos/transit-luang-prabang.jpg" alt="Loatian tuk-tuks lined up outside a building in Luang Prabang, Laos." /> <figcaption>Loatian tuk-tuks in Luang Prabang. Image credit: Getty Images / f11photo</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="boat">Laos river exploration</h2> <p>For a landlocked country there are a lot of boat voyages to be had in Laos. The Mekong River has been a major transportation hub in Laos for millennia and if you spend a little time traveling in the country you’re sure to take to the water from time to time. Luang Prabang makes a minor industry out of unforgettably romantic sunset cruises (often complete with canapes and cocktails) but there are also nippy little Mekong speedboats and sedate multi-day cruises to carry you between riverside communities.</p> <p>You can find a variety of slow boats and river taxis plying the waterways around Luang Prabang, Huay Xai, and Vang Vieng. As is frequently the case in Southeast Asia’s most beautifully unspoiled backwaters, slower is often better and the boats that putter along the slowest let you make the most of the stunning landscapes.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/laos/mekong-boat.jpg" alt="A tourist boat on the Mekong river near Luang Prabang." /> <figcaption>Cruising on the Mekong river. Image credit: Getty Images / Jacus</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="money">Money in Laos</h2> <p>With US $50 buying you a little over a million Laotian Kip, you become an instant millionaire the moment you arrive in Laos. It’s important to learn quickly to recognise the different notes and distinguish between all those zeros: you don’t want to accidentally hand over 1,000,000 Kip for a taxi ride that should only have cost you 100,000.</p> <p>Also, be aware if you’re expecting to change US dollars that old, dirty or ripped notes are not accepted. Only rarely (in the most heavily-touristed areas or biggest towns) can you pay by credit card, but ATMs are a convenient solution since they are widely available in every town.</p> <h2 id="food">Laotian food to try</h2> <p>Even in Indochina, an area renowned for great food, Laotian cuisine stands out. Whether eating in tourist-class restaurants or <a href="/responsible-travel/make-a-difference/participation/eat-like-a-local-when-you-travel">local night markets</a>, a sense of adventure will pay dividends. The famous ant-egg soup and fried crickets might not be for everyone, but food is freshly cooked and healthy, so this could be the ideal place to step out of your comfort zone from time to time.</p> <p>You’re likely to come across the Laotian signature dish <em>larb</em> (sometimes spelled <em>laab, laap, larp</em>…) almost immediately but beware: it’s so deliciously addictive that you might not want to eat anything else! This salad of thinly sliced or minced meat (although there are also vegetarian varieties) is delicately flavored with greens, herbs, and spices.</p> <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/laos/larb-salad.jpg" alt="Larb, a Laotian salad made with minced pork." /> <figcaption><em>Larb</em> made with pork. Image credit: Getty Images / mutarusan</figcaption></figure> <p><em>Sai oua</em> (a hearty Laotian pork sausage) is another must-try speciality along with <em>khao jee</em> (crunchy baguette sandwiches, often stuffed with pâté of French colonial origin). Vegetarian delights include <em>tum mak hoong</em> (papaya salad) and succulent spring rolls made with rice paper and dipped in peanut sauce (although you might want to check because both dishes are frequently seasoned with fish sauce).</p> <p>While you should be adventurous with the food it is wise to be a little more cautious with water. Tap water should be avoided and if you’re wise, that advice extends to ice as well. Rather than leaving a trail of empty plastic bottles as you travel, consider investing in a water bottle fitted with a filter. <a href="https://lifestraw.com/" target="_blank">Lifestraw</a> offer a variety of bottles so it’s now possible to complete an entire trip without leaving a single plastic bottle in your wake.</p> <p><em>*If you choose to ride, consider <a href="/travel-insurance">travel insurance</a> and be sure to comply with its requirements, such as riding with a helmet and being appropriately licensed to ride in your home country at your destination.</em></p>Getty Images/Paul Biris 1555959597 Getty Images The Hmong market outside Haw Pha Bang temple in Luang Prabang, Laos.