John Baston

John Bastonhttps://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/about/contributors/john-bastonJohn Bastonhttps://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/north-america/united-states/winter-adventures-in-arizonaArizona’s natural wonders don’t stop with the Grand Canyon. Naturalist guide John Baston shares southern Arizona’s striking landscapes, rich history, and abundant desert wildlife.2021-09-28T10:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/north-america/united-states/winter-adventures-in-arizonahttps://www.worldnomads.comIn the depths of winter, many of us find ourselves longing for sunshine and warmth – a place where we can ditch the parka, wear our sandals, and walk around in short sleeves. Fortunately, there’s plenty of space under the wide-open skies of southern Arizona to enjoy a winter escape. I started to guide hiking trips in Sedona and the Grand Canyon 20 years ago. The first thing to know is that Arizona is not all desert. It’s the sixth largest of the United States and is also home to mountains, canyons, rivers, and forests. Many areas in northern Arizona are high elevation and cold and snowy in the winter, while the southern third of the state is mostly low altitude, hot, and dry. At first, I always arrived in Phoenix and left it for the more iconic destinations in the north. But over the years, my intrigue grew with the mountains and canyons around Phoenix and Tucson. I specifically started to come just for the desert and now I <a href="https://www.roadrunnerexpeditions.com/">enjoy guiding trips</a> in winter and early spring in, what we generally refer to as, the Sonoran Desert. <ul> <li><a href="#phoenix">Native American culture and desert adventures near Phoenix </a></li> <li><a href="#scenic">The scenic route between Phoenix and Tucson</a></li> <li><a href="#tucson">Saguaros, waterfalls, and wildlife near Tucson</a></li> <li><a href="#trip-notes">Trip notes</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="phoenix">Native American culture and desert adventures near Phoenix</h2> When I lead tours here, I make sure to bring guests who are interested in Native American culture to the Heard Museum. Founded in the late 1920s, and originally based on one couple’s personal collection, this splendid museum has grown up with the city and evolved in its perspectives and presentation of Arizona’s first peoples. As a guide who is always trying to provide deeper meaning and context, a visit here is great preparation for visiting other Native American sites around the region. For great natural experiences not far from Phoenix, I go to the many trailheads of the gorgeous McDowell Mountain Regional Park, about 37mi (60km) northeast of town. Here opportunities abound to see unique desert wildlife such as Harris’s hawks, Gilded flickers, Gila woodpeckers (living in saguaro cactus!), and Regal-horned and Zebra-tailed lizards. Some people come here just to take pictures of the gnarly, weathered granite boulders, reminiscent of Joshua Tree National Park in California. Another spot just 7mi (11km) south of downtown Phoenix is South Mountain Park and Preserve which has about 50mi (80km) of <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/hiking-travel-insurance">hiking trails</a>. Here, you can hike or drive to Dobbins Lookout (2,330ft/710m) for great views of the Phoenix area. As a hiker, I’m generally more comfortable moving through the desert on my own two feet. But a local friend suggested I try <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/mountain-biking">mountain biking</a> on the groomed desert single-track trails at Brown’s Ranch, north east of Phoenix. As I whizzed through the gravel and past the cactus in the sunshine I felt as though I’d discovered a brand-new sport. I’m certain to come back for more. You can pick up a detailed trail map of the many beginner and intermediate paths at the trailhead. If you call the local REI store, you can even have some mountain bikes delivered to the trailhead to rent for the day. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/usa/arizona/mountain-biking-phoenix.jpg" alt="A man mountain bikes on a desert trail at Brown's Ranch near Phoenix, Arizona." /> <figcaption>The author on a trail at Brown's Ranch. Image credit: John Baston</figcaption></figure> For campers, Lost Dutchman State Park, east of Phoenix, is my favorite campsite in the area. It’s open year-round and has great scenery, hiking trails, and showers. Hike right to the base of the Superstition Mountains for an amazing sunset. <h2 id="scenic">The scenic route between Phoenix and Tucson</h2> If you’re driving to Tucson, skip the Interstate and take the quieter, more scenic Pinal Pioneer Parkway (State Rt. 79). You can find many wonders along the way. Hikers won’t want to miss the southern access to the Superstition Wilderness at the Peralta Trailhead. I like to park here and walk up Peralta Canyon 1,500ft (457m) to the saddle (about 2.5mi/4km one-way). The first time I was here, I was taken by the geology of the canyon, but did not expect to come upon one of the finest views in the entire desert. Bring a lunch, find a seat on the rocks, and appreciate the extinct volcanic plug known as Weaver’s Needle. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/usa/arizona/weavers-needle.jpg" alt="Hikers sit gazing at Weaver's Needle, an extinct volcanic plug in the Superstition Wilderness, Arizona." /> <figcaption>Weaver's Needle. Image credit: John Baston</figcaption></figure> Along the Pinal Parkway you’ll also find Casa Grande Ruins National Monument, home to the single largest remaining freestanding building of historical <a href="/explore/north-america/united-states/native-american-journeys">North American civilizations</a>, and also the ancient story of the “Valley of the Sun”, which we now generally refer to as “Greater Phoenix”. Imagine no concrete, cars, and strip malls but instead, a huge, sun-drenched valley fed by three rivers (Gila, Verde, and Salt) and irrigated by a massive canal system, which supported more than 100,000 people. What is now the Phoenix area was once the homeland of the Hohokam people – the ruins and displays at Casa Grande NM are a great way to reconnect this landscape to this ancient civilization. <h2 id="tucson">Saguaros, waterfalls, and wildlife near Tucson</h2> Tucson lies about two hours southeast of Phoenix and is known for being artsy and intellectual. To a Californian, I would say that Los Angeles is to San Francisco what Phoenix is to Tucson – they’d get it. Tucson is also higher in elevation, and so just in the strike zone of the saguaro cactus. They are everywhere there – the densest stands are protected in Saguaro National Park. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/usa/arizona/saguaro-cactus.jpg" alt="A group of hikers stares up at a massive saguaro cactus near Tucson, Arizona." /> <figcaption>A group of hikers gazing up at a massive saguaro cactus. Image credit: John Baston</figcaption></figure> Just before you arrive in Tucson on the Pinal Parkway, you’ll come to the edge of the Pusch Ridge Wilderness. I bring my tour groups here for a stroll at sunset to see the spectacular light on the western-facing slope of the mountains. You can hike into this rugged stretch of mountains from Catalina State Park and find frogs in the famous vernal pools. The Catalina Mountains climb thousands of feet behind the town of Tucson and provide a wide range of recreational opportunities. Arrive early at the popular Sabino Canyon trailhead and take the tram up into the mountains to do some easy walking to observe the scenery or get dropped at the much less visited Bear Canyon trailhead and hike (5mi/8km round trip) to Seven Falls. It still amazes me to see waterfalls in the desert next to cactus! These trails are great for early spring (mid-February) wildflowers. It’s also possible to drive to the top of the Catalina Mountains. As a seasoned observer of nature, I enjoy this little voyage which starts in the desert studded with saguaro cactus, moves through a number of ecosystems on the way to the coniferous forest and tops out at a ski area. Stop at Windy Point (elevation 7,000ft/2,134m) for pictures or to watch the sunset. Tucson is also home to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. This lovely outdoor museum perched at the edge of Saguaro National Monument has exhibits of live animals from the Sonoran Desert including mammals, birds, reptiles, and insects from both the Mexican and American sides of the desert (most of the Sonoran desert <a href="/explore/north-america/mexico/border-towns-the-real-story#biosphere">lies in Mexico</a>). You won’t want to miss the morning raptor free flight – this well-orchestrated “show” only happens once a day and allows visitors a close-up experience of birds of prey flying and perching. And the gardens and botanical displays are worth the price of admission alone. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/usa/arizona/raptor-show.jpg" alt="A raptor flies towards some prey during a raptor show at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. " /> <figcaption>The free-flight raptor "show" at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. Image credit: John Baston</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="trip-notes">Trip notes</h2> Tuscon and Phoenix both have international airports. Winter and early spring are the best times to visit this beautiful landscape (summers can be stiflingly hot). But be careful – the snowbird inside you will have you longing to return.John Baston 1 John Baston

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/north-america/united-states/a-local-park-rangers-guide-to-exploring-southeast-alaskaWe asked a local guide, John Baston, to share his tips on the best things to see and do in Alaska’s Inside Passage.2018-01-30T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/north-america/united-states/a-local-park-rangers-guide-to-exploring-southeast-alaskahttps://www.worldnomads.comHere, it’s all about the water. The ocean separates the islands, the glaciers separate the mountains, and the rain separates a real adventurer from a sunburnt tourist swilling a cheap cocktail elsewhere at a beach resort. I’ve been working as a naturalist and guide in Southeast Alaska for 25 years.  I first arrived in Juneau as a young park ranger on my way to Glacier Bay National Park. My flight north from the lower 48 – as it’s referred to by Alaskans – was several hours soaring over what appeared to be an endless sea of mountains, snow, and glacial ice.  The plane descended into Juneau and landed a couple of miles from a huge glacier. I remember feeling so excited to be in this new, wild, and vast place, but I had no idea of the encounters with animals – and sea monsters – that lay ahead. <ul> <li><a href="#cruise"> To Cruise or Not to Cruise </a></li> <li><a href="#food"> Get a Taste of Southeast Alaska </a></li> <li><a href="#wilderness"> Protected Wilderness </a></li> <li><a href="#kayaks"> Sea Kayaking </a></li> </ul> <h2 id="cruise">To cruise or not to cruise – that is the question</h2> The experience of being at sea is essential, but not all cruising is created equal. Aside from the large floating mega hotels, there are many ferries, small ships, and private yachts that can get you onto the water and into the most remote places in Southeast Alaska.  Although it's expensive to take a cruise or charter a yacht, there are less luxurious options that offer keen adventurers a chance to take a journey by boat. The state-run ferry system, known as the Marine Highway, has simple rooms and even lounge chairs on deck that anyone can sleep on in a sleeping bag. An adventure cruise on a small touring vessel (<g class="gr_ gr_69 gr-alert gr_gramm gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim Grammar only-ins replaceWithoutSep" id="69" data-gr-id="69">US</g> $3,000/week) is a pricey upgrade, but it's a great way to share the camaraderie of fellow adventurers, experience the pristine maritime world of Southeast Alaska, and it provides endless opportunities to see wildlife from the ship. But, if a long journey at sea is not for you, there are many day trips that'll take you to see the glaciers and visit wildlife hotspots, returning to land at the end of the day. So much of our lives are spent on land, so the calm waters of the Inside Passage give us a chance to get off terra firma and explore the sea.  <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/Explore/alaska/brown-bear-southeast-alaska-john-baston.jpg" /> <figcaption> A bear turns over rocks while looking for blennies in Glacier Bay, Southeast Alaska. Photo credit: John Baston </figcaption></figure> <h2 id="food">Get a taste of southeast Alaska</h2> The whales, bears, and birds are so abundant in Alaska, thanks to the food sources available. With long hours of summer daylight, the concentration of nutrients and pristine state of the environment make the Inside Passage one of the most productive spots on the earth. Seafood aficionados look for delicate sablefish, freshly caught salmon and halibut, delectable sea scallops, sweet Dungeness crab, tender spot prawns, and crack up three foot long legs of delicious king crab. Southeast Alaska also has some of the easiest berry <g class="gr_ gr_82 gr-alert gr_gramm gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim Grammar multiReplace" id="82" data-gr-id="82">picking</g> you could find, anywhere. In the summer months, you can find beaches strewn with wild strawberries, blueberries and huckleberries in the forest, wild currants, salmonberries, and a local’s favorite – the Nagoonberry.  Every little town seems to have its own smokehouse where they prepare and sell smoked fish, each with their own unique brine.  Smoked black cod melts in your mouth and unctuous smoked salmon bellies and collars are the choice cuts on the fish. <h2 id="wilderness">Protected wilderness</h2> The Southeast region of Alaska is 97% federally protected land, including the world’s largest wilderness (St. Elias World Heritage site), America’s largest national forest (the Tongass National Forest), Glacier Bay National Park, and Misty Fjords National Monument.  With all this comes an unparalleled opportunity for solitude; watching animals in their natural habitat, human-powered adventures, and reconciliation with a world untrammeled by humankind. <h2 id="kayaks">Sea kayaking in the Inside Passage</h2> Here, you can go even deeper into nature and <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/kayaking-or-rafting">get in a kaya</a>k, camp, and unplug. Ultimately, this was my fate as an expedition sea kayak guide. I’ve had my best wildlife encounters on kayak trips. Watching a bear walk along the shoreline, and having wolves come into my camp is frightening – but exciting.  Having a quiet walk along the desolate shoreline and looking for odd stones <g class="gr_ gr_66 gr-alert gr_spell gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim ContextualSpelling" id="66" data-gr-id="66">that’ve</g> been moved by previous glacial periods is a reckoning of the ages. However, nothing beats drifting in the stillness from the safety of a <g class="gr_ gr_87 gr-alert gr_gramm gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim Punctuation only-del replaceWithoutSep" id="87" data-gr-id="87">kayak,</g> and watching as the glassy ocean surface is shattered by a surfacing pod of behemoth humpback whales. Their thunderous breath sounds like a blast of propane in a hot air balloon. Startling, it makes you buckle, <g class="gr_ gr_86 gr-alert gr_gramm gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim Grammar multiReplace" id="86" data-gr-id="86">reassess</g> your tininess adrift on the sea. They take another breath, raise their giant dripping fluke above the surface, and again disappear. That’s right, there are monsters in this sea. John Baston 0

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/north-america/united-states/top-destinations-for-dramatic-landscapes-in-alaskaIn our pursuit to find Alaska’s most dramatic landscapes, a local park ranger reveals a few extra surprises on offer for travelers willing to explore a little further.2018-01-30T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/north-america/united-states/top-destinations-for-dramatic-landscapes-in-alaskahttps://www.worldnomads.comAlaska isn’t just an icy land in the north. Its <a href="/explore/north-america/united-states/a-local-park-rangers-guide-to-exploring-southeast-alaska" target="_blank">diverse landscapes</a> include vast mountainous areas, long expanses of tundra, an immense temperate rainforest, and over 30,000mi of shoreline. It’s safe to say you could explore Alaska for the rest of your life, and still not have seen it all! <ul> <li><a href="#denali"> Denali </a></li> <li><a href="#kenai"> The Kenai </a></li> <li><a href="#southeast"> Southeast Alaska </a></li> </ul> <h2 id="denali">Flightseeing and Brown Bears in Denali</h2> North America’s highest mountain rises proudly out of the Alaska Range.  The famous Alaska Railroad can take you there from either of the state’s two largest cities, Anchorage and Fairbanks.  Once you arrive you’ll want to sign up for a bus tour on the Denali road, where it’s possible to see the ‘grand slam’ of wildlife all in one day as you roll across the treeless tundra.  The national park was originally created to protect the white Dall Sheep from hungry miners. Brown Bears roam the tundra in search of ground squirrels and berries. Moose can be seen feeding on willows, and Caribou can be seen sometimes alone and sometimes in a herd. I’ve seen a river otter playing with its pups on a riverbank, owls flying in daylight, and wolves caching fresh bits of moose meat. You are out there in nature’s domain. Head out to the Kantishna District deep inside the park, and stay a few nights for best chances to see wildlife and ‘the mountain’ stripped of its clouds.  This old mining district hosts four <g class="gr_ gr_78 gr-alert gr_gramm gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim Punctuation only-del replaceWithoutSep" id="78" data-gr-id="78">lodges,</g> and is the best place to see Denali. If it’s clear, you won’t want to miss connecting with Kantishna Air or K2 Aviation in Talkeetna for some flightseeing in a small airplane. Getting a view from above the park and beside the mountain is an experience of a lifetime. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/Explore/alaska/hiking-in-denali-john-baston.jpg" /> <figcaption>Hiking in Denali, Alaska. Photo credit: John Baston </figcaption></figure> <h2 id="kenai">Glacier Walking and Fishing for Halibut in The Kenai</h2> Conveniently located south of Anchorage is the Kenai Peninsula, Alaska’s recreational wonderland – and this place has it all. The Chugach National Forest and Kenai Fjords National Park offer hundreds of miles of hiking trails. Here, you can hike deep into the rainforest, climb a small mountain covered in wildflowers, or strap on some crampons to walk across <g class="gr_ gr_79 gr-alert gr_gramm gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim Grammar only-ins replaceWithoutSep" id="79" data-gr-id="79">glacial</g> ice. Don’t miss the Exit Glacier Trail for a short hike and a <g class="gr_ gr_82 gr-alert gr_spell gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim ContextualSpelling multiReplace" id="82" data-gr-id="82">close up</g> view of ancient ice melting into the torrential Resurrection River.  Hike 4mi (6.5km) up the mountains above the Exit Glacier to its source, the Harding Icefield.  This perpetually frozen lake is over 30mi (48km) <g class="gr_ gr_81 gr-alert gr_gramm gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim Punctuation only-del replaceWithoutSep" id="81" data-gr-id="81">long,</g> and provides an icy cap to the entire Kenai Peninsula. The Kenai coastline is dotted with small towns, where you can hire a boat and try your luck at fishing for giant halibut and salmon. The town of Seward, named after Abraham Lincoln’s secretary of state who negotiated the purchase of Alaska in 1867, is the gateway town for Kenai Fjords National Park. Departing the Seward Harbor are all-day boat tours, taking visitors out towards the Gulf of Alaska where it’s common to see sea otters, orca, and huge flocks of puffins. Throughout the <g class="gr_ gr_77 gr-alert gr_gramm gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim Punctuation only-ins replaceWithoutSep" id="77" data-gr-id="77">Kenai</g> there are lodges, inns, and campgrounds to accommodate budgets for all travelers. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/Explore/alaska/tiny-people-big-glacier-alaska-john-baston.jpg" /> <figcaption>Hikers on a glacier that can only be accessed by a helicopter ride. Photo credit: John Baston</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="southeast">Kayaking the Maritime Wonderland of Southeast Alaska</h2> To the <a href="/explore/north-america/united-states/a-local-park-rangers-guide-to-exploring-southeast-alaska" target="_blank">far south is a place unlike the rest of the state</a>. Seemingly disconnected (physically and politically), Southeast Alaska is a long stretch of islands, fjords, and small towns that aren’t connected by roads. It’s a maritime world, a boater’s paradise. Whether a kayak or a cruise ship is your thing, you’ll find beauty in the calm, protected waters of the Inside Passage.  Here, there are islands that have more bears than anywhere else in the world, and tons of humpback whales that have come to consume the copious balls of <g class="gr_ gr_64 gr-alert gr_spell gr_inline_cards gr_run_anim ContextualSpelling ins-del" id="64" data-gr-id="64">bait fish</g>. This is the place to go if you want to see the glaciers that tumble down from lofty heights, crashing into the sea.  Only 50 of Alaska’s 100,000 glaciers make it all the way down to the ocean, and all of them are in the southern part of the state!  Alaska’s charming historic capital, Juneau, is a great jumping off spot for whale watching, bear viewing, sea kayaking, and exploring smaller seaside communities like Sitka, Haines, and Gustavus. Alaska’s Southeast is for those who love the ocean and its creatures, glassy reflections on the water, clean fresh air, and spending time wandering on the shoreline of uninhabited islands. So, what’ll it be? Denali, Southeast, or the Kenai? Want to know more about the USA? Check out <a href="/explore/north-america/united-states/the-world-nomads-podcast-usa-guide">our podcast</a>. Hang out with orcas in Alaska, follow the barbecue trail through the Deep South (with a vegetarian), strap on your skis in Colorado, and learn about the thriving Creole cowboy culture.John Baston 0