Tamara Thiessen

Tamara Thiessenhttps://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/about/contributors/tamara-thiessenTamara Thiessenhttps://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/travel-wiser/practical/how-to-travel-with-pets-internationallyHere's what to consider before taking your dog or cat along on an international vacation – from logistics and documentation to your pet's personal preferences.2025-01-27T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/travel-wiser/practical/how-to-travel-with-pets-internationallyhttps://www.worldnomads.comMore than half of the world's population owns a pet, and <a href="https://www.unwto.org/news/international-tourism-recovers-pre-pandemic-levels-in-2024" target="_blank">according to the UN</a>, 1.4 billion people traveled internationally in 2024. Pets are our companions – members of the family, really – so it’s natural to want to take them along on vacation. But is it practical, let alone desirable for the pets? When I inherited a cat from a suburban garden in Paris around 2014, I was immediately faced with the challenge of traveling with her back to my then home in Germany. The trip was by car. It was a nightmare, but we survived. Cupcake, as I christened her, was not accustomed to travel, at already around 8 years old. She did not take to my idea of giving her a breath of fresh air en route in the Champagne vineyards, attached to a cat leash (what was I thinking?), and my partner and I still bear the scars today. The situation was a far cry from friends who regularly travel around Europe with their cat sitting on their lap in the front passenger seat. But they started out early. Whether a dog or a cat, if you want to make good travel companions out of them, you must train them to travel while they’re young. But it still doesn't guarantee they will enjoy <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/road-trip">a road trip</a>, let alone flying. Cupcake became a seasoned, though not super enthusiastic, traveler over time. As a journalist and travel writer, I was shooting off to many places with her. But all of them were across a land border, not overseas. That is an entirely different ball game. <ul> <li><a href="#fly">How to fly with a dog or cat</a></li> <li><a href="#stress">Is it stressful for pets to fly?</a></li> <li><a href="#transport">Traveling with pets on trains and public transport</a></li> <li><a href="#car">How to travel with a dog in a car</a></li> <li><a href="#rules">International travel with pets: rules and requirements</a></li> <li><a href="#hotels">Pet-friendly accommodations and attractions</a></li> <li><a href="#options">Travel with pets: weighing the options</a></li> </ul> <h2 id="fly">How to fly with a dog or cat</h2> A big question will be finding an airline that allows pets onboard – and as carry-on or cargo. Some carriers, like American Airlines, don’t allow pets as carry-on to Europe – even though they do at home. <a href="https://www.delta.com/us/en/pet-travel/international-connection-pet-travel?srsltid=AfmBOopcAI3fJZpPkOX9K4diJDsSSA9FFDVwwExyfWHSFtrqqNG4UEvp" target="_blank">Delta</a> makes no exceptions for Transatlantic flights. But like many airlines, it has other rules such as maximum pet size – or minimum age – kennel dimensions. and the number of pets accepted on each flight. “We have a first-come, first-serve policy for pets in the cabin,” <a href="https://www.delta.com/us/en/pet-travel/overview" target="_blank">Delta says</a>. The fee is $200 one-way. <a href="https://wwws.airfrance.us/information/passagers/voyager-avec-son-animal-chien-chat" target="_blank">Air France</a> puts any pet that weighs over 8kg/17.5lb in its carrier in the hold, as does <a href="https://www.lufthansa.com/au/en/animals-excess-baggage" target="_blank">Lufthansa</a>. So check the fine print of your airline’s pet policies and fees before jumping in. <a href="https://www.alaskaair.com/content/travel-info/policies/pets-traveling-international?srsltid=AfmBOopOmHHehxcTgAOx1Kgg1RVPKJk86Vi5QRjCp_DY__vHtaLcwh5T" target="_blank">Alaska Airlines</a> will take your pets to Mexico, Canada, and the Bahamas, among other places, but not to Belize or Guatemala, and recommends against Costa Rica travels because of the risk of screwworm. <h2 id="stress">Is it stressful for pets to fly?</h2> Animal organizations advise against non-essential air travel for pets. But plenty of globetrotting dogs out there are ready to prove them wrong. Near or far, by plane, train, or car, one of the key considerations when deciding to journey with your pet will be whether they like it. Both dogs and cats will soon let you know with their behavior and body language. Partly, it’s trial and error. I learned in time how to make car trips more comfortable for Cupcake, dealing with the motion sickness – the drooling, meowing, and pooping – with cat-calming treatments. Vets say time-zone changes, noisy airports, and changes in diet and medications can make air travel stressful for your pets. Add to that confinement on the plane and altitude and pressure acclimatization. Consult your vet as to what is best for your pet. You will also want to research the availability and quality of vet services at your destination. Some people turn to pet travel consultants and transport services to make all the travel arrangements. But these are primarily for relocating, not vacationing, with pets. Others who can afford it choose charter options for flying with pets. <h2 id="transport">Traveling with pets on trains and other public transport</h2> Once you get to your European destination, <a href="/responsible-travel/make-a-difference/participation/the-return-of-train-travel">train travel</a> with your pet will be a relative breeze, as will public transport, though it depends on which country. Cupcake and I traveled regularly on the European rail network. Usually, I had to pay her way – around €15 a trip. Again, you must check the national rail at your intended destination for rules about cage size, animal weight, the need for leashes and muzzles, and bans on some dog breeds. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/travel-wiser/pets/traveling-with-pets-train.jpg" alt="A man sits with his dachshund on his lap on a train in England." /> <figcaption>Traveling on Europe's rail network with pets is relatively easy. Image credit: Getty Images / SolStock</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="car">How to travel with a dog in a car</h2> If you fancy taking your pooch on an international road trip, see how they take to car travel at home first. And prep well with the right travel gear – food, water, a dog seat belt and safey harness, and a booster seat – to keep your dog comfortable and protected. An unrestrained dog can cause distractions and could be seriously injured (or injure the driver or passengers) in an accident. Also, plan on potty stops or take along portable pet toilets or pee pads – and any required meds for anxiety or nausea. If traveling with a cat, similar harnesses and car seat belts are available (assuming your cat will tolerate a harness), or your kitty can ride in a hard-sided carrier, seat-belted into the back seat. For longer trips, you can place a litter box in the carrier, but the best option is to limit trips to a four or five-hour maximum each day. <h2 id="rules">International travel with pets: rules and requirements</h2> <h3>Traveling with pets in Europe</h3> The processes and paperwork for an American or Brazilian pet-cationing across continents to Europe are much the same as for a German on holiday with their pets in France. The EU rules for traveling with pets – specifically dogs, cats, and ferrets – apply to travel from outside the EU as well as within. EU residents need an <a href="https://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/travel/carry/pets-and-other-animals/index_en.htm#inline-nav-3" target="_blank">EU Pet Passport</a> for their pet – which you can get from any authorized vet. The vet will check that your pet meets all the requirements: that it's been microchipped and vaccinated against rabies. A pet passport is valid for life as long as your pet's health information and vaccinations remain up to date. If traveling from a non-EU country or territory, your pet will need an <a href="https://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/travel/carry/pets-and-other-animals/index_en.htm#inline-nav-4" target="_blank">EU animal health certificate</a> – this must be issued by a vet in the departure country no more than 10 days before your pet's arrival in Europe. It is valid for travel between EU countries for four months. There may be other health rules depending on the country you're coming from – and going to. For example, if you're headed to Finland, Norway, Malta, or Ireland with your pooch, it must be treated for tapeworm infection one to five days before traveling. The <a href="https://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/travel/carry/pets-and-other-animals/index_en.htm" target="_blank">EU's Europa website</a> has a handy tool for checking travel requirements by country. All the necessary treatments are ticked off on your pet's passport or EU animal health certificate. There are set <a href="https://food.ec.europa.eu/animals/movement-pets/travellers-points-entry_en" target="_blank">points of entry</a> you must arrive at with your pets, but these are basically at every international airport in Europe. While many people report that authorities don’t end up checking their pet’s documents, they all advise sticking to the rules – apart from anything else, it’s not worth the risk of being turned back. <h3>Where can I travel with my pets?</h3> Many countries have similar rules to Europe for traveling with pets – microchips, rabies vaccinations, and pet ID. And that includes road trips between the <a href="https://www.aaa.com/pettravel/pet-travel-tips/Traveling-Between-the-United-States-and-Canada-When-You-Have-a-Pet#:~:text=U.S.%20citizens%20taking%20pet%20cats,number%20and%20lot%20expiration%20date." target="_blank">US and Canada</a> (the rules are less strict for Canadians visiting the US). If you have a place in mind, you need to immediately check the requirements for taking pets. For some pet owners, there are definitely no-go countries – eliminated because of their distance as much as the difficulty of getting pets in. Australia is one of them unless you're coming from New Zealand and some other nearby islands. Even “<a href="https://www.agriculture.gov.au/biosecurity-trade/cats-dogs" target="_blank">compliant animals</a>”, says the Government, which meet all the health conditions, will undertake “a minimum” 10-day quarantine when arriving from the UK, US, or <a href="https://www.agriculture.gov.au/biosecurity-trade/cats-dogs/how-to-import/step-by-step-guides#group-3-country-cats-and-dogs" target="_blank">other Group 3 countries</a>. Whoops, there goes the vacation. Bali and Jamaica are among the many other destinations with prohibitive quarantine times and costs for pet travel. Heading off on an adventure? Find out <a href="/travel-insurance/whats-covered">how travel insurance can cover</a> lost or stolen baggage, sudden illness, trip cancellation, or other mishaps. <h2 id="hotels">Pet-friendly accommodations and attractions</h2> Finding a hotel isn’t your only concern once you cross the borders or oceans with your pet. After all, you’re not just going to dump your bags and pooch and go sightseeing, are you? If so, what was the point in bringing your furry companion along? There are myriad pet-friendly accommodations and activities around the world, from pet-friendly cafes and restaurants in France to beaches in Croatia, pubs in the UK, and national parks in Canada and the US – both paradises for pet travel. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/travel-wiser/pets/travel-with-pets-hotel.jpg" alt="A senior woman sits with her dog at the edge of a swimming pool in Greece." /> <figcaption>Many hotels and vacation rentals are dog-friendly. Image credit: Getty Images / AleksandarNakic</figcaption><figcaption></figcaption></figure> Europe has many pet-friendly small hotels, guesthouses, and self-catering options – particularly in France, Germany, Switzerland, and Spain – as do the UK, the US, and Canada. Groups like Accor and <a href="https://www.marriott.com/marriottassets/marriott/PHXMA/PDF/phxma-pdf-pet-acceptance-agreement-form.pdf" target="_blank">Marriott</a> charge a pet cleaning fee, which varies between properties and countries but can be a bit steep – up to $150. <a href="https://news.airbnb.com/airbnbs-ulti-mutt-travel-guide-for-pets-this-summer/" target="_blank">Airbnb says 27%</a> of its listings are pet-friendly. Colombia, Brazil, India, and Chile top the list, followed by Austria, the UK, the US, Mexico, and Switzerland. <h2 id="options">Travel with pets: weighing the options</h2> If you want your pets to tag along, you might have to tailor the trip to them, and perhaps consider sticking closer to home. Sure, we can get stressed about leaving our pets behind – and they can get anxious about their owners leaving. However, the stress and hassles of traveling overseas may outweigh those problems. In the end, we have to listen to our pets. Where would they prefer to be – at home or away?Getty Images / lechatnoir 11343304311 Getty Images A woman walks her dog along the streets of Rovinj, Croatia.

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/europe/france/cycling-la-seine-a-velo-from-paris-to-the-seaTamara Thiessen tackles France’s new cycling route, La Seine à Vélo, which unfurls along the Seine from Notre-Dame in Paris to the Normandy coast through a multitude of cultural and natural wonders. 2022-06-07T10:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/europe/france/cycling-la-seine-a-velo-from-paris-to-the-seahttps://www.worldnomads.comAs I eye up Monet’s garden of nymphéas – his famous water lilies – at his home in Giverny at the end of a cruisy half-day bike ride, I am thinking how sweet freedom tastes. The Seine à Vélo will go down as the route that helped me keep my sanity through many long months of lockdowns. A cycling lifesaver. The route’s launch in mid-October 2020 fell in an interlude between pandemic lockdowns one and two. With just a fortnight to go, we grab our bikes and bags and run … or rather <a href="/travel-insurance/whats-covered/adventure-sports-and-activities">pedal</a>. The 260mi (420km) itinerary snakes its way along the Seine from Paris to the sea, mapped out in 15 stages. If you are time-strapped, there are easily skippable stages. You can also customize it by difficulty level or the scenery you want to see. "Cycle along to your criteria" urges the website. These include “I cycle often”, “beginners”, or “family trip”. Given we live in the French capital, we decide to skip the first four legs through Greater Paris as we already know those sites – from the Canal Saint-Martin through to Empress Joséphine’s Château de Malmaison, which she inherited upon her divorce from Napoleon. Instead, we launch straight into mid-Autumn canal-side cruising in the footsteps of the Impressionists. <ul> <li><a href="#normandy">From Paris to the border of Normandy</a></li> <li><a href="#monet">From Monet’s heartland to Les Andelys’ mighty fortress</a></li> <li><a href="#rouen">Rouen: fantastic food, a famed cathedral, and Joan of Arc</a></li> <li><a href="#seaside">A change of air: Rouen to the seaside </a></li> </ul> <h2 id="normandy">From Paris to the border of Normandy</h2> After a 36-minute trip from Paris-Saint-Lazare station we arrive in Mantes-la-Jolie, still in the Île-de-France region. It’s a regional TER train, so we can <a href="https://www.sncf.com/en/passenger-offer/travel-by-train/ter/all-about-our-bike-offer" target="_blank">take our bikes on board for free without a reservation</a>, unlike many super-fast TGV trains. Nor do we need to pack them away. (Note: If you are <a href="https://www.laseineavelo.com/preparation/accueil-velo-services" target="_blank">renting bikes</a>, the best place to do so is the capital.) After fast-tracking it to <a href="https://www.laseineavelo.com/cycle-route/la-roche-guyon-vernon" target="_blank">stage 4</a>, we meander around the north bank of the Seine on well-marked tracks. It’s an Indian summer blue-sky day. After about an hour, on the outskirts of the village of Vétheuil, we pass an ochre-yellow house near a bend in the river. Monet lived here in 1878. The view over the water of the old winemakers’ houses on the slopes recalls one of his paintings, Vétheuil in Summer. The scene was captured from his floating studio – a boat. A couple of miles on, still hugging the river, we encounter a remarkable church, its spire surging from the chalky white cliffs. The troglodytic church of Haute-Isle was gouged into the rock in the 1600s like many of the earliest dwellings in the Seine River Valley. At our next stop, La Roche-Guyon, we see many troglodyte caves. The village and its splendid château sit on a forested bend of the Seine, presided over by a cliffside medieval fortress. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/cycling/roche-guyon.jpg" alt="The chateau and medieval fortress at La Roche-Guyon, France." /><a href="https://fondation-monet.com/en/" target="_blank"></a> <figcaption>The château and medieval fortress at La Roche-Guyon. Image credit: Tamara Thiessen</figcaption></figure> This is the only place in Greater Paris to make it to the <a href="https://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/fr/nos-villages/la-roche-guyon/" target="_blank">most beautiful villages of France list</a>. It lies right on the border with Normandy, so the charming half-timbered houses of that region make their first appearance. At the château, we visit the grand salon, gardens, and stables. Then we climb a troglodyte passageway to the top of the dungeon for a panorama over the town roofs and riverside. We are immersed in greenery and watery scenery, just as the route’s jingle promises. Au fil de l’eau – a journey along the water. <h2 id="monet">From Monet’s heartland to Les Andelys’ mighty fortress</h2> Next is <a href="https://www.laseineavelo.com/cycle-route/la-roche-guyon-vernon" target="_blank">stage 5</a>, a 12mi (19km) ride to Claude Monet's museum home in <a href="https://fondation-monet.com/en/" target="_blank">Giverny</a>. The stroll through the grounds and home where he lived for 43 years is one through art history. Monet's legacy comes to life among the weeping willow reflections and Japanese bridges of the Water Garden and the beautifully staged decor of the interiors, from the blue sitting room strung with brass pans to the artist's bedroom displaying many of his works. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/cycling/giverny-pond.jpg" alt="The famous water lilies on the pond at Monet's house in Giverny, France." /> <figcaption>The famous water lilies at Monet's house in Giverny. Image credit: Tamara Thiessen</figcaption></figure> On 16mi (26km) stage 6, <a href="https://www.laseineavelo.com/cycle-route/vernon-les-andelys" target="_blank">Vernon/Les Andelys</a>, we’re on dedicated bike paths for about 20% of the journey. The rest is a mix of minor roads, dirt, and grassy tracks. The fully bike-adapted "greenway" along this stretch is due for completion by 2023. Along the way, we skirt ancient Seine-side quays and watermills, built in Normandy style, with criss-cross wooden beams. The Vieux-Moulin of Vernon straddles the river precariously on the remnants of a medieval bridge. Overseeing a mighty loop in the Seine, the Château Gaillard at Les Andelys was built for Richard the Lionheart – English King, Duke of Normandy – in 1198. We call it a day at a lovely, ivy-walled farmhouse B&B with a view of the imposing Normand fortress ruins. Down the street, we enjoy fresh local produce, Normandy cheeses, salmon, and beer in a cozy, chic bistro. <h2 id="rouen">Rouen: fantastic food, a famed cathedral, and Joan of Arc</h2> After taking a few shortcuts on stages <a href="https://www.laseineavelo.com/cycle-route/les-andelys-poses" target="_blank">7</a> and <a href="https://www.laseineavelo.com/cycle-route/poses-rouen" target="_blank">8</a>, we arrive in Rouen. We are hungry, which is fortuitous in a city whose cuisine is flagged by UNESCO as a <a href="https://en.rouentourisme.com/gastronomy/" target="_blank">Creative City of Gastronomy</a>. The "city of 100 steeples" is laden with World Heritage history, fine art – and fine food. The cider is refreshing and dishes from scallops to the puff pastry dessert douillon d’Elbeuf are flavored with calvados, apple, and honey. Today, there are only 38 steeples left due to the destruction wrought by the French Revolution and World War II. The Gothic cathedral, with its 495ft (151m) spire, rockets up in the heart of the old town. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/cycling/rouen-cathedral.jpg" alt="The impressive facade of the Gothic cathedral of Rouen." /> <figcaption>The Gothic cathedral in Rouen. Image credit: Getty Images / Rosmarie Wirz</figcaption></figure> Passing through cobblestone streets and under the Gros Horlodge astronomical clock, we come to the historic market square, Place du Vieux-Marche. At its center is a church commemorating the city's heroine, Joan of Arc. The Saint was burned at the stake here by the English in May 1431. Her presence is everywhere – in butchers, bars, bakeries, bridges, schools, and streets named Jeanne d’Arc. We spend a couple of hours art-gazing at the <a href="https://mbarouen.fr/en/the-museum-4" target="_blank">Musée des Beaux-Arts</a>, the biggest collection of Monets, Sisleys, and Renoirs outside of Paris. Then it's time to return to the capital, with another lockdown looming like Darth Vader’s shadow. Loading our bikes onto the <a href="https://www.laseineavelo.com/preparation/getting" target="_blank">TGV Rouen-Paris</a> is a breeze. <h2 id="seaside">A change of air: Rouen to the seaside</h2> In the New Year, as the second lockdown eases, we hit the road again for a big breath of fresh air. On Saturday morning, we go by train to Rouen, ready to tackle <a href="https://www.laseineavelo.com/cycle-route/rouen-la-bouille" target="_blank">stages 9</a> and <a href="https://www.laseineavelo.com/cycle-route/la-bouille-jumieges" target="_blank">10</a>. The first 12mi (19.5km) is an easy riverside stretch, marked as family friendly. At the end, we climb aboard a free ferry, the bac de Sahurs, and cross the river to La Bouille. The charming village, nestled into forested cliffs, was loved by Turner, Sisley, and Gaugin. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/cycling/la-bouille.jpg" alt="Bicyclists pedal past half-timbered houses in the French village of La Bouille." /> <figcaption>Normandy-style half-timbered houses in La Bouille. Image credit: DDarault</figcaption></figure> 30 minutes on, we take another ferry from Yville-sur-Seine to reach Jumièges at the end of stage 10. Its Benedictine abbey was “the most beautiful ruin in France" according to Victor Hugo. From Jumièges, you can choose to head east to the UNESCO-packed port city of Le Havre, or west, as we do, towards the sweeping expanse of beach umbrellas and glamorous boardwalk at Deauville. But the thing I want to – must – see is the <a href="http://www.museevictorhugo.fr/en/home-2/" target="_blank">Victor Hugo Museum</a> in Villequier, which is part way along stage 11 towards Le Havre. We do some improvising to include that in our stage 13. The detour adds an hour and lots of cultural and scenic rewards to our journey. That's the beauty of the route – it’s totally tweakable to your time and fitness constraints, and your whim and fancy, as long as you plan to arrive in and leave from a town with good train connections. On our Sunday ride, the Seine lassos in a big loop through the forests and thatched cottages of the Parc Naturel Régional des Boucles de la Seine Normande. It’s peaceful pedaling and blissful bucolic biking the whole way. After 27mi (44km) to the wetland wonders of Marais-Vernier, we sleep over and fuel up for a grueling last day. The Honfleur/Deauville option is tougher. Both stages <a href="https://www.laseineavelo.com/cycle-route/marais-vernier-honfleur" target="_blank">14</a> and <a href="https://en.francevelotourisme.com/cycle-route/la-seine-a-velo/honfleur-deauville" target="_blank">15</a> come with a warning “it rises”. Again we deviate, to cut the 45mi (73km) course almost in half. We miss some lofty inland views but save our legs by sticking to the Seine estuary and the coast. If you want, you can take a TER train from Honfleur to Le Havre in 40 minutes and peak-bag, reaching both endpoints of the ride. Either way, you can be back in Paris in a couple of hours. But we've done enough cheating as it is, and we’re ready to return home. Over our two trips, we've accomplished about two thirds of the ride – and it's felt more like an amazing discovery than simply going with the flow of the Seine.David-Darrault-La-Seine-à-Vélo 0 David-Darrault-La-Seine-à-Vélo A group of cyclists pedal along the Seine near the village of La Bouille in northern France.

Trekking Borneo’s “Headhunter’s Trail”https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/stories/fear/trekking-the-headhunters-trail-in-borneoTrekking Borneo’s “Headhunter’s Trail”Thu, 03 Jan 2019 00:00:05 GMThttps://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/stories/fear/trekking-the-headhunters-trail-in-borneohttps://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/europe/france/cycling-corsicas-tour-de-france-routesCorsica has often been called “the Mountain in the Sea.” Here’s what it’s like to tackle the island’s roller-coaster cycling routes.2018-12-12T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/europe/france/cycling-corsicas-tour-de-france-routeshttps://www.worldnomads.comResting on my handlebars, high over a teetering limestone precipice on the <a href="/explore/europe/france/the-world-nomads-podcast-france">southern coast of Corsica</a>, alongside me is the medieval town of Bonifacio – the Città alta – and its clifftop citadel. Below, beyond the pretty little harbor and a huddle of orange-hued stone houses, is the vertical limestone sea stack known as U Diu Grossu (“big finger” in Corsican dialect), and just visible, 7.5mi (12km) across the Strait of Bonifacio, I can see the Italian island of Sardegna (Sardinia), once part of the same Roman province. <ul> <li><a href="#tourdefrance"> Cycling the 2013 Tour de France Route </a></li> <li><a href="#expect"> What to Expect </a></li> <li><a href="#stageone">Porto Vecchio to Bonifacio </a></li> <li><a href="#figari">Figari to Ajaccio </a></li> <li><a href="#stagethree">Ajaccio to Calvi </a></li> <li><a href="#tripnotes"> Trip Notes </a></li> </ul> <h2 id="tourdefrance">Cycling the 2013 Tour de France Route</h2> As an islophile, I have always been irresistibly drawn to islands for all kinds of outdoor adventures, from hiking to cycling. On top of its incredible coastline with 200 beaches, Corsica is a ready-made biking trip. On my first cycling assault of Corsica, in August 2013, the island was still riding high on Tour de France frenzy after being selected as the race kick-off point for its 100th edition. Now, five years later, I choose the <a href="/explore/europe/france/6-things-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-to-france">low-season month of October</a>, where height-of-summer crowds and temperatures are at bay, and road riding is quieter, too. <h2 id="expect">What to Expect</h2> The Tour de France routes take in many <a href="/explore/europe/france/why-i-love-and-hate-france">scenic highlights</a>, north to south, east to west, and inland including rustic villages, goat-filled valleys, nature reserves and mountain saddles. But they don’t have to be tackled at a pro’s pace – the island terrain is tough enough as it is; dozens of peaks and folds are compressed with origami-like complexity into its 3,350sq.mi (8,681km2). For an island that is just 113mi (183km) long and 51mi (83km) wide, it has 21 peaks rising above 6,560ft (2,000m), and more than 150 cols (alpine passes); no wonder Corsica is often referred to as the ‘the Mountain in the Sea’. This all boils down to a hurly burly ride for cyclists, and a 10-speed road bike and good fitness levels are necessary for tackling the predominantly undulating roads. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/cap-corse-ride-france-tamara-thiessen.jpg" /> <figcaption>Northern Corsica (Cap Corse). Photo credit: Tamara Thiessen</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="stageone">Porto Vecchio to Bonifacio</h2> There are three tour stages to tackle in Corsica. This time, I pick out a couple of legs I skipped in 2013, starting with the beginning section of Stage One, a 41mi (67km) from Porto Vecchio to Bonifacio, which I hope to complete in one day. The Grand Départ – first leg of the race – starts between <a href="/explore/europe/france/a-guide-to-exploring-the-midi-pyrenees">mountain</a> and sea in the east coast port city of Porto Vecchio, then swoops down to the southernmost point of Corsica, Bonifacio, through some typically sharp bends and descents, which are an immediate test on my breaks and nerves. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/old-city-bonifacio-on-cliff-corsica-tamara-thiessen.jpg" /> <figcaption>The old city, Bonifacio, perched on white cliffs over the Mediterranean Sea. Photo credit: Tamara Thiessen</figcaption></figure> Nonetheless, on 'the island of 10,000 bends', my first day is a relatively easy ride with a 2,821ft (860m) climb – compared to the 6,233ft (1,900m) ascent on Corsica’s Stage Two of the Tour, through the vertiginous alpine hinterland from Bastia to Ajaccio, which I conquered over five-days on my 2013 trip. Around me, an almost impenetrable green carpeting of maquis (scrubland vegetation found in the Mediterranean region) camouflages about 40% of the island, amid chestnut, pine and myrtle trees, and more than 2,000 plant and flower species. It’s hard to beat the Corsican food for essential fuel. A culinary-cultural fusion of native and Italian flavors, meat is served with pulenta as opposed to polenta, lasagna is made with wild pig, and cannellonis au brocciu with fresh ewe’s milk cheese, laden with garlic and silver beet. Along the way I picnic on rustic Corsican cheeses with chestnut flour bread, and develop a dangerous addiction for canistrelli biscuits, flavored with coconut, walnuts and aniseed. I pass up Bonifacio’s five-star hotels for a typical rural bolthole in Figari, a further 12.5mi (20km) away, where I soak up the island’s renowned hospitality (and food) at a stone-walled farmhouse. <h2 id="figari">Figari to Ajaccio</h2> A couple of days later, aiming for a leisurely 32mi (50km) or so a day (about four hours of solid riding) I arrive in the Corsican capital Ajaccio (Aiacciu), Napoleon’s birthplace, with pretty pastel-colored houses in the old town, a palm-lined port and elegant public squares. Napoleon – so-called ‘petit Corse’ and ‘avenger of Corsica’ – was born in 1769 to Italian parents as Nabulione di Buonaparte. A year earlier, France had won Corsica from the Italian city-state of Genoa, leaving locals disgruntled at outside interference, and with a fiery independence streak. A battle for greater autonomy, waged by several militant nationalist groups since the 1970s, simmers away in the backdrop, but poses no threat to travelers, and in Ajaccio, I see several old posters plastered about town, where national and Tour de France pride collide. I soak up its Italian dolce vita over pasta and espresso in a café in Cours Napoléon, part of the old town center, before continuing my ride to Calvi the next day. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/ajaccio-corsica-tamara-thiessen.jpg" /> <figcaption>Ajaccio, Corsica. Photo credit: Tamara Thiessen</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="stagethree">Ajaccio to Calvi</h2> A thigh-burning 80mi (130km) awaits me over the next three days as I peddle north along the narrow west coast roads between Ajaccio and Calvi, through five mountain passes, on the big dipper ride. Stage Three of the Tour starts with a spectacular and rather hairy 8,850ft (2,700m) ascent, then similar descent, where I find myself suspended almost barrier-less over the Mediterranean. Corsica’s beauty reaches new heights here, along with the hills, and gives me the strength to carry on, particularly through the UNESCO-listed site of the Calanches de Piana cliffs to the Gulf of Porto. Tooth-edged, crimson cliffs sculptured into an astounding menagerie of shapes and forms loom 984ft (300m) over the coastal road.  <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/calanches-de-paina-west-coast-corsica-tamara-thiessen.jpg" /> <figcaption>Calanches de Paina cliffs. Photo credit: Tamara Thiessen</figcaption></figure> After six days of riding, I feel proud to have officially completed the three Tour de France stages – over two trips. But that doesn’t mean I won’t be back to cycle the island again – once I’m over my saddle soreness, <a href="/explore/europe/france/insiders-france-exploring-beyond-paris">I’ll get planning</a>. <h2 id="tripnotes">Trip Notes</h2> <h3>Getting there</h3> <a href="https://www.aircorsica.com/flights/">Air Corsica</a> offer direct flights year-round from Nice and Paris Orly Airport. Between April and October, you can fly from London to Ajaccio, Bastia, Calvi and Figari on Corsica. Ferries go from several French and Italian ports. It’s advised to book in advance, but not mandatory. <h3>When to go</h3> Travel during low season in Spring (September–October) or Fall (May–June), when the weather is still warm with daily temperatures ranging from 51.8°F/ 11°C to 77°F/ 25°C.  <h3>Bike hire</h3> <a href="https://corse-location-velo.fr/">Corse Location Velo</a> have several road bike models for hire at great prices (seven days for US $250/220 Euro), and deliver to key locations all over the island. The other option is to pay for a self-guided bike tour or join a specialist cycling tour company, such as <a href="http://www.activevacations.com/">Province-based Active Vacations</a>. With <a href="https://appebike.com/fr/en/accueil-en/">AppeBike</a> (an electric bike hire mobile application) you can rent bikes by the half hour or week, and drop it at a station of the network, from Bastia and Bonifacio to Ajaccio and Calvi. <h3>How to get around Corsica</h3> By bike, hire car, or bus and taxi. Check out <a href="https://corsicabus.org/">CorsicaBus.org</a> for prices of bike carriage on some services. <h3>What to pack</h3> Comfy sporting gear including padded shorts, light sweater and pants for cooler evenings; helmet, water bottle and snacks, sunglasses and sunscreen, puncture kit and pump, route map, and plenty of cash for country tripping.Tamara Thiessen 0