Kate OMalley

Kate OMalleyhttps://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/about/contributors/kate-omalleyKate OMalleyhttps://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/northern-europe/latvia/what-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-to-latviaNomad Kate didn't expect to be so captivated by this tiny Baltic country. Here's what she wishes she'd known before traveling to Latvia.2021-08-19T10:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/northern-europe/latvia/what-i-wish-i-knew-before-going-to-latviahttps://www.worldnomads.comI admit I had a preconceived idea of Latvia, expecting a charmless, even drab country. Instead, I discovered elegant cities, vast expanses of pristine wilderness and stunning white sand beaches, ultimately wishing I could stay longer in this small, northern European nation on the Baltic sea. One week in Latvia was certainly not long enough. Here's what to know before you visit, and tips on what to see and do. <h2>1. Getting to Latvia is easier than you think</h2> I had always thought of the Baltic States (<a href="/explore/northern-europe/estonia/a-guide-to-exploring-soomaa-national-park">Estonia</a>, <a href="/explore/northern-europe/lithuania/exploring-the-legends-and-landscapes-of-the-curonian-spit">Lithuania</a>, and Latvia) as an isolated group of countries in the furthest reaches of Europe. Given the poor transport connections I have experienced between many Eastern European countries (primarily the <a href="/explore/europe/albania/hiking-in-albania">Balkans</a>), Latvia is surprisingly well connected with modern, efficient, and budget-friendly transport options beyond the international airport.  For as little as US $16, each of the Baltic States capitals can be reached from Latvia in a little over four hours on the luxury bus service, <a href="https://luxexpress.eu/">The Lux Express</a>. The Lux Express also has budget bus services from Riga, Latvia's capital city, to Warsaw (Poland). There are also very affordable overnight sleeper trains. These connections, many of which are direct, offer a great experience as an alternative to flying and without the cost and hassle of airline luggage allowances. This makes Latvia an excellent gateway for exploring the Baltic region as a whole.  <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/latvia/latvia-houses-kateomalley.jpg" alt="Colorful houses and flowers in Riga, Latvia." /> <figcaption>Colorful houses and flowers in Riga, Latvia. Photo credit: Kate O'Malley</figcaption></figure> <h2>2. The beaches are stunning</h2> Latvia's coastline is more than 300mi (500km) long, with some of the most beautiful and interesting beaches in Europe. Stretches of secluded white sand beaches flanked by hauntingly beautiful pine forests line the Baltic coast. The seaside town of Jūrmala is 30 minutes' drive from Riga, and is famous for its beautiful beaches and a unique architectural blend of 19th-century wooden houses and notable Soviet-era buildings such as Dubulti Station and the concrete monolith, the Ķemeri Sanatorium. Around three hours' drive from Riga, on the west coast of Latvia, is the coastal region of Kurzeme. During the Soviet era, the coast was a heavily guarded border, mostly closed to development, leaving Latvia with miles of astonishing natural beauty along the isolated and rugged coastline. A few coastal towns dot the coastal region — the most prominent, the 1.8mi (3km) Liepāja Seaside Park, a Blue Flag beach and one of the largest forested parks in Latvia. Twenty minutes up the coast, the isolated shores of Karosta offer more than natural attractions. The Northern Forts are a series of abandoned bunkers along the Baltic Coast. Once part of the Naval Port’s defenses, much of the base was deemed redundant and destroyed by Tsar Nicholas II in 1908. The bunkers held strong despite efforts to blow them up. Exploring the ruins, it’s ironic that, 100 years on, as the bunkers begin to collapse and slide into the sea like icebergs calving, they are starting to pique the interest of travelers to Latvia. Further up the coast, 12.45mi (20km) from the quaint fishing village of Pāvilosta, are the Jurkalne Bluffs, a series of rounded cliffs. One of the most beautiful beaches on the Latvian coast, Jurkalne (which translates to "Sea Mountain") has the steepest coast in the country. In places, the bluffs reach up to 65.6ft (20m). The small town of Jurkalne attracts paragliders and <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/surfing">kite surfers</a>, thanks to a combination of strong winds and high dunes, but the long stretch of beach is often empty. <h2>3. Latvian people are friendly</h2> The people of many former Soviet countries have a reputation for being stony-faced or even downright rude. But Latvians – while not overtly gregarious – are very friendly. Nearly all Latvians speak three languages well. In addition to their native tongue, Russian and English are widely spoken, even in the more remote areas. If you need assistance, ask! Most Latvians will gladly assist, and many will go the extra mile to showcase Latvia's hospitable side. Perhaps this is why we are so charmed with Latvia. Sheltering from a sudden downpour, a group of locals wave and gladly share their table at a restaurant while we wait out the rain. I also experienced the hospitality of a young Latvian man I met at a food festival. Appalled I hadn't tried Latvia's national drink black bablsam (a herbal liqueur produced since 1700), he left his party of friends to escort me to buy a small bottle. These gestures, small as they may be, shape my memory of Latvia. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/latvia/latvia-locals-kateomalley.jpg" alt="Street food in Riga, Latvia." /> <figcaption>Street food in Riga, Latvia. Photo credit: Kate O'Malley</figcaption></figure> <h2>4. Latvian food is distinctive (especially the rye bread)</h2> At the crossroads of Scandinavia and Eastern Europe, Latvia's food scene is influenced by neighboring countries such as Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Russia, Poland, Germany, and obviously, Latvia's Baltic sisters – Lithuania and Estonia. Hearty meat dishes feature heavily on the Latvian menu, as does smoked and pickled fish and pelmeni (a tortellini-style meat dumpling). Seasonal harvests also add distinctive styles and flavors such as wild mushrooms, berries, sorrel, and nettle. While a penchant for pelēkie zirņi – grey peas with speck (large grey peas similar to chickpeas, boiled then fried with fatty smoked bacon) – stands out, it is Latvia's love affair with delicious rupjmaize (dark rye bread) and what they do with it that intrigues me. Try kvass, a refreshing traditional Latvian drink, similar to beer, made with rye bread. Considered to be nonalcoholic, it does contain a cheeky measure of alcohol, up to one per cent. Maizes zupa, or rye bread soup, is a cold, thick sweet soup made from sweetened dark rye bread, water, dried fruits, and cream. Or, rupjmaizes kārtojums a rye bread layered desert similar to a trifle. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/latvia/latvia-food-on-sale-kateomalley.jpg" alt="Meat on the grill in Latvia." /> <figcaption>Latvian food. Photo credit: Kate O'Malley</figcaption></figure> <h2>5. It's easy to get back to nature in Latvia</h2> One of Europe’s greenest countries, around 50% of Latvia is wilderness. Add to this 330mi (530km) of woods bordering the Baltic coastline, and Latvia is an ideal <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/hiking-travel-insurance">hiking</a> and <a href="/travel-insurance/activities/camping-travel-insurance">camping</a> destination. Designated campsites scatter the country, but unlike many places now, wild camping is still allowed in Latvia which makes getting back to nature here much more of an adventure. While coastal hiking is one of the best things to do in Latvia, a great day trip from Riga is the Great Kameri Bog in the Kameri National Park. Bogs are one of Latvia's most significant natural resources, and many are protected areas of EU importance. Less than an hour's drive from Riga, on The Great Kameri Boardwalk we crossed the elevated moss marsh through a landscape of peat moss, fragrant wild rosemary, pines, and small lakes. The wooden boardwalk runs in two arcs. The shorter arc a 0.93 mi (1.5km) walk and the longer arc a 2.2 mi (3.7km) walk with an observation platform that offers magnificent views of the bog from above. One of the most picturesque landscapes in Latvia, The Great Kemeri Bog is a favorite sunrise and sunset spot for photographers throughout the year. Another thing, in hindsight, we wish we knew about Latvia.Kate O'Malley 0 Historic buildings in central Riga, Latvia.

https://public-web-wn.uat.wng.me/explore/europe/france/a-guide-to-exploring-the-midi-pyreneesKate O'Malley explores one of the most beautiful and unspoiled areas in France.2018-11-23T11:00:00Z https://wng-kosmos-wn-cms-uat.kaos.nibit.com.au:443/explore/europe/france/a-guide-to-exploring-the-midi-pyreneeshttps://www.worldnomads.comThis isn't the first time I've been to the Midi-Pyrenees. My partner and I spent a few months housesitting here nearly two years ago. Affordable French skiing was the attraction then, but we quickly realized skiing is only the tip of the Midi-Pyrenees metaphorical iceberg. So, we've returned to southwest <a href="/stories/love/providence">France</a>, one of France's most unspoiled regions, famed for its natural beauty, Cathar castles, and medieval fairytale villages, where the Pyrenees mountains form a natural border with <a href="/explore/europe/spain/going-urban-a-guide-to-spains-top-cities">Spain</a>. <ul> <li><a href="#mirepoix"> Mirepoix </a></li> <li><a href="#roquefortlescascades"> Roquefort Les Cascades </a></li> <li><a href="#carcassonne"> Carcassonne </a></li> <li><a href="#chateauderoquefixade"> Hiking the Château de Roquefixade </a></li> <li><a href="#niaux"> Cave of Niaux </a></li> <li><a href="#llivia"> Llivia </a></li> <li><a href="#tripnotes"> Trip Notes </a></li> </ul> <h2 id="mirepoix">Mirepoix</h2> We base ourselves in medieval Mirepoix, a delightful ancient Bastide (fortified) town, where the central square is surrounded by brightly colored houses and quaint shops hidden beneath covered arcades. Mirepoix has a long-standing association with some of France's most-loved culinary traditions. It is where the mirepoix (an aromatic French stock base of diced carrots, celery, and onion) originated in the 18th century. On Monday mornings, the weekly outdoor market fills the central square, brimming with <a href="/explore/europe/france/why-i-love-and-hate-france">everything we love about France</a>. True to the village's culinary origins, stalls overflow with local produce and regional delicacies, including a mind-boggling array of cheeses and homemade saucisson (sausage). It’s the perfect place to stock up on food for a picnic in the countryside. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/mirepoix-midi-pyrenees-kate-omalley.jpg" /> <figcaption>Colorful streets of Mirepoix. Photo credit: Kate O'Malley</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="roquefortlescascades">Roquefort Les Cascades</h2> Roquefort Les Cascades is a perfect day trip destination for a picnic, a 30-minute <a href="/travel-safety/europe/france/france-road-safety-how-to-survive-french-roads-the-world-nomad-s-way">drive</a> from Mirepoix. Named after the local 98ft (30m) high waterfall, we had heard about this tiny village from a shop owner in Mirepoix. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/roquefort-les-cascades-midi-pyrenees-kate-omalley.jpg" /> <figcaption>Roquefort Les Cascades. Photo credit: Kate O'Malley</figcaption></figure> The water forms calcium deposits as it flows across the green, mossy rocks, creating a "tufa" waterfall, often described as a petrified waterfall. It’s March, and an unseasonably late cold snap has left the falls partially frozen. There’s a track which traces the waterfall to its source. The landscape at the top is far more beautiful than I had imagined. An enchanted forest of twisted trees forms a canopy over a series of crystal-clear streams. Part of me wishes we’d enjoyed our picnic up here by the stream, under the shade of moss-covered trees. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/the-roquefort-les-cascades-midi-pyrenees-kate-omalley.jpg" /> <figcaption>Moss rocks beside the waterfall. Photo credit: Kate O'Malley</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="carcassonne">Carcassonne</h2> Another great day trip is to France’s most celebrated and well-preserved medieval walled city, Carcassonne. In 1997, La Cité de Carcassonne was added to UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites. Less than an hour's drive from Mirepoix, the 1.9mi (3km) long, double-walled city, with its 52 watchtowers, have more than 2,500 years of history. In the 12th-century, La Cité de Carcassonne grew to become a critical French frontier between France and Spain during the Thirty Years War. Under the rule of Napoleon, Carcassonne was demilitarized and the fortifications abandoned. The city fell into such decay, despite a government decree to demolish it, restoration of the fortifications began in 1853 by famed architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. Regardless of criticism questioning the authenticity of Viollet-le-Duc's work, the restoration of Carcassonne is still considered a work of genius. Walking across the imposing drawbridge and through the main city gates, the expansive walled city quickly closes in on us. The narrow medieval streets are buzzing with commerce, and we realize the 12th-century La Cité de Carcassonne is a living, breathing city. Small lanes spill onto squares filled with outdoor cafes. Beyond the clusters of postcard racks and restaurants advertising lunch specials on cassoulet, there are boutique hotels and little apartments nestled in the corners of quiet squares where locals go about their business as the tour buses leave for the day. <h2 id="chateauderoquefixade">Hiking the Château de Roquefixade</h2> Clinging to the cliff above the tiny village of Roquefixade, the ruined Château de Roquefixade is a Cathar castle dating back to 1180 (the Cathar heresy was a 12th-century, Christian movement which rejected the Roman Catholic Church believing they were the only true Christians). This was a place of refuge for the Cathars during the time of the Crusades, a 20-year campaign initiated by Pope Innocent III to eliminate Catharism in southern France. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/chateau-de-roquefixade-midi-pyrenees-kate-omalley.jpg" /> <figcaption>Château de Roquefixade. Photo credit: Kate O'Malley</figcaption></figure> The hike to the ruin, a 1.5mi (2.5km) ascent, is not overly strenuous, although steep and uneven in parts. The only way to the top is by foot. The castle ruins are barely holding together on their rocky perch, which has been exposed to the elements for centuries. Some of the structure is closed to the public due to its structural instability, but what remains tells of the imposing building that once stood there. While the view of the castle is more impressive from below, the view of the Pyrenees from the ruins at 2,950ft (900m) above warrants the hike to the top. Of all the Cathar castles in the region, it’s from here you are most likely to enjoy the stunning 360° vistas of the Pyrenees on your own. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/view-from-chateau-de-roquefixade-midi-pyrenees-kate-omalley.jpg" /> <figcaption>Views of the spectacular Pyrenees mountains. Photo credit: Kate O'Malley</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="niaux">Cave of Niaux</h2> The Midi-Pyrenees are home to the most prehistoric caves in France. The Cave of Niaux in the foothills of the Pyrenees contains some of the most impressive Paleolithic rock art in Europe. The cave – one of few where prehistoric cave art can still be viewed by the public – can only be explored with a guide. Still in its original state to preserve the works of art, the cave is unlit (flashlights are provided), and there are no designated walkways. We take a half mile (800m) walk over uneven ground into the cave by flashlight, before we reach the "Salon Noir," a dark cavern at the back of the cave. We are asked to turn our lights off to appreciate the cold, dark environment in the depths of the mountain. Our guide's flashlight suddenly reveals a gallery of paintings dating back to the ice age, some 17,000 years ago. We see detailed depictions of bison, horses and deer on the walls, and also see a few examples of graffiti dating back to the 1600s. <h2 id="llivia">Llivia</h2> A local couple from Carcassonne told us about a small Spanish enclave surrounded by France. Less than two hours by car from Mirepoix near the border of Andorra, Llivia is separated from <a href="/explore/europe/spain/reuniting-with-my-family-in-asturias-spain">Spain</a> by a 1mi (1.6km) corridor. Much like Gibraltar, the Spanish town of Llivia is a cartographical anomaly, a legacy of the 1659 Treaty of the Pyrenees. Spain relinquished 33 villages in the north of Cerdanya to France. After signing the Treaty, Madrid deemed Llivia a town, not a village, and so Llivia never became part of the French Kingdom. Visiting two countries in one day is a rare opportunity. Sitting in the town square of Llivia, we order vino tinto and tapas in our best attempt at the Spanish language; I marvel at how easily in Europe we can slip from one culture to the next. Only an hour ago, I was sipping a cafe au lait a few streets away in France, and now I am having lunch in <a href="/explore/europe/spain/off-the-beaten-path-spain">Spain</a>. <figure><img src="https://media.worldnomads.com/explore/france/llivia-midi-pyrenees-kate-omalley.jpg" /> <figcaption>The streets of Llivia, France. Photo credit: Kate O'Malley</figcaption></figure> <h2 id="tripnotes">Trip Notes</h2> <h3>What to Pack</h3> The region is famous for its beautiful landscapes and outdoor activities. There are over 3,000mi (5,000km) of marked walking trails to be discovered. The Midi-Pyrenees are also renowned for its medieval towns and villages with narrow cobblestone streets, <a href="/explore/worldwide/sustainable-travel-for-women">so a good pair of comfortable walking shoes</a> or a pair of sturdy hiking boots are essential to exploring the area. <h3>When to Go</h3> The Midi-Pyrenees has a very comfortable climate with short winters and lots of sunshine year-round. Spring and early fall are great times to visit for the landscapes and agreeably warm temperatures.  The high summer months of July and August will be hot, and very busy. Regardless of relatively mild winters, good snow can be found on the mountains from December–April. Both the Ariege and Hautes-Pyrénées departments are great bases for keen skiers and snowboarders. <h3>How to Get There</h3> There are regular trains from Paris to the capital of the Midi-Pyrenees – Toulouse. Toulouse has regional services throughout the Midi-Pyrenees as well as trains from Nice, Marseille, and Hendaye. Expect it to take between four to six hours from Paris to Toulouse. Overnight sleeper trains are available. There are international airports at Toulouse and Carcassonne.Kate O'Malley 0